Discussion in 'The Garage' started by mountainexplorer, Jul 21, 2004.
How can you tell if it's a forged steel or not?
Look at the parting line on the flywheel hub,(the place where the two halves of the mold would meet) A cast crank will have a very sharp and fine parting line, but a forged crank will have a wide parting line. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
Thanks. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif I thought I had heard something like that before, but wasn't sure.
I just looked at the crank that is in question and another one. One has two definite lines, completely opposite of each other. The other one has more like little mounds on either side... no definite line or ridge.
What he said....Go with curtain #2 /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
Ahh ya bastid! ya got a forged crank, sheit. Im gonna end up buyng a scat 4340 crank i think. /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
I just pulled a couple rods and pistons out... bearings to copper, some scarring on the crank journals, and the bearings have .040 on them. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
I thought .030 under was usually max. Looks like I got a steel crank, but it's useless. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Ahh damn, that blows.
Yep, finished the tear down. Mains are .020 under, rods are .040.
You should be able to use it as a core though, that's why I stressed that it was a forged crank and not cast.
You don't want to turn in a forged crank and get a cast in return. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
why not have it welded and reground?????
Forged RULES!!! Its what is going to turn my 383!!
what motor is it alan? if its a small block, then just have it ground down and use a small journal rod.....
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