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Forked up my radiator

JT88K5

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I have a fairly new 2yo mishimoto aluminum radiator in my K5. I cross threaded and subsequently stripped the bottom trans cooler fitting. Yeah, I know how dumb do you need to be to let that happen. Anyhow, in order to salvage it, I’m going to attempt to drill and tap (3/8 npt) the bung and use a brass 3/8 to inverted flare fitting to reconnect the existing trans cooler line.
Anyone ever try this or maybe you have a better idea vs buying a new radiator for $350, which I may end up doing in the long run.
I assume there is a tube welded to the inside of the bung, mishi couldn’t tell me size or give me a visual of what I’m up against.
 

Time for this or something like it
 

Time for this or something like it
So… you’re saying it can’t be done? I don’t doubt your opinion, I know it’s a long shot. Your doubt about the plan made me think about it again. Along with the adaptor, I ordered a 3/8 threaded bung. Since there is a tube welded to the back of the existing bung, I immediately dismissed using the new bung.

Plan B, just weld the new bung on top of the existing bung, no drilling or tappin required. Problem solved, might look unsightly, but the more I think about, the better it sounds.
 
I think OBIJUAN is just pointing towards another option or opportunity to upgrade to a much better cooler then an in tank design.

Your bung plan is solid but it can be skipped all together and bypassed with a superior setup - it’s just money…
 
You’re threatening an internal leak that could go undetected after you cut new threads. Coolant in your trans is an expensive accident and atf in the cooling system is just a pain to clean.


If you’re capable of welding a new fitting on then that’s probably the best option as far as just putting it back together.

But an external cooler has a bunch of pros that I’m not sure are in your interest or not.
For me it permanently eliminates the possibility of the fluid mixing which is good enough reason for me.
 
I have a 10x10 plate and fin trans cooler after the radiator, located in front of radiator and condenser. Nothing wrong currently except the threads. As long as I’m not drilling on it and just adding the bung on the outside, I don’t think that would compromise the integrity of the built in cooler. This is what I’m working with 3FDC2EF5-3B63-4046-9E22-5C1AC90A0BE3.jpeg
 
Welding the bung to the bung would be easiest in terms of not damaging it

Is the new bung a flare end bottom?
 
New bung is this


The bung in the picture is upside down. I say that because I cannot screw in the 3/8 brass fitting to the end on top in the picture, the other end with the collar has a chamfer and the fitting can be screwed in easily. The top of the bung in the picture is the same diameter as the top of the bung in the radiator. I have a brass fitting 3/8 npt to 5/16 inverted flare I will use to connect bung to existing flare fitting on trans cooler line.
 
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That’s straight pipe thread. There’s no flare in the bottom. You will have to change the fitting end on the line
 
I'd just bypass it and use an external. Anything you do to that fitting you're running a pretty good risk to your trans if it's not 100%
 
Well…. The bung we tried to weld on melted like butter. Didn’t leave a mark on the radiator. Plan B has been initiated. Running -6AN hose from tranny directly to the plate and fin trans cooler. Adding a temp guage while I’m at it. If I need to add a fan or bigger cooler, I’ll know it quickly. Cooler on it now is a Derale 9000.
Realized I have 15k on the trans and decided to pull the trans pan, add a drain plug and change the filter. While I have the pan off, I want to adjust the tv cable. I recall reading somewhere that one could adjust it properly with the pan off. Any truth to that?
 
Found it. How to properly set your tv cable for 700R4. Skip to 20:00 to avoid the 700r4 shaming. Must drop pan to do it right or you’re just pissing into a 40mph wind. The guy really doesn’t like mechanical vs electronic, he’s young, it’s understandable. Someone mentioned the video in another post but I didn’t see a link.
 
You prob want to double check the rad for leaks before you go all in on it now. Just in case.
 
Never been a fan of the internal cooler. The external one has to be more efficient
In this case yes because the internal cooler is small, but in general liquid cooling is better than air cooling so if you have a bigger internal cooler it would cool better.
Now back to @obijuank5 comments, I agree especially after my friend lost his big rig engine when his oil cooler had an internal leak and put coolant in his oil.
I now try to keep fluids separate
 
Smoked the engine in my 96 Tahoe due to coolant in the oil. I decided to trade it vs fix it as soon as this happened for the second time. 1st was at ~95k, caught in time and repaired. Then again at ~150k. I thought I could change the oil and get it the dealer under its own power. About 10 miles into the trip it overheated again. Dealer sent the tow truck to get it, sent a car to pick me up. Intake manifold gasket failure.
 
Ran AN6 from trans to cooler. Cooler was oriented with hoses on bottom, rotated it 90. inlet from the hot side with T for temp sensor on bottom. Dropped pan to adjust tv cable. I have 15k on the trans, figured it could use a new filter and fluid. Had about 1/8 of material on the magnet. Picture below, good, bad, or indifferent?
Headed to Wally World for trans fluid and antifreeze. IF the cooler lines don’t leak, I’m hoping to have it rolling today.

8A76419C-8E8C-48CE-8790-34709341429D.jpeg

9A56FFEC-C9F7-465D-8B94-498239DF8F8F.jpeg
 

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