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Forward rear spring hanger, 88 K3500.

Gunnar1971

1/2 ton status
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Whittier. SoCal.
I just picked up a 1988 K3500 that was hit on the drivers side and is in need of the forward rear spring hanger. The problem I am running into is all the hangers I have found have 3 mounting holes per side, where the originals only have 2. It looks like they might work, but I wanna see if anyone has any input. The only aftermarket ones I can find are for a 4" lift from DIY4X, and I am going to use the truck for work so a lift is out of the question.

Has anyone had this problem and were you able to find a solution?


1988 K3500 6.2 Diesel, 2.5" wide springs.


Original hangar 2 mounting holes:
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Replacement ones 3 holes:
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Aftermarket ones 4" lift:

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You can't replace those with the DIY4X shackle flip.

The piece that is broken is the front rear spring hanger/ mount. The shackle flip is for the shackle at the back of the truck.
 
I would knock the rest of the rivets out and weld some more metal on there (or have someone else do it), drill your hole and bolt it back up.
 
I would knock the rest of the rivets out and weld some more metal on there (or have someone else do it), drill your hole and bolt it back up.
I think you may be right, I just walked outside and looked at it, it is still in one piece, just the rivets knocked out. :thumb:
 
FWIW it looks like those aftermarket hangers only use the upper two holes - lowest hole looks like it's at about the same level as the leaf spring bolt so it's not used.
 
The lower holes are for an angled piece that goes on the bottom of the frame.
 
Think your right--the older square bodies had an angle iron brace from the bracket to the bottom lip on the frame on the higher GVW rated trucks ,probably the same deal on the '88 and up ones..
 
I would knock the rest of the rivets out and weld some more metal on there (or have someone else do it), drill your hole and bolt it back up.


take a look its real tight to even try and get a hand or anything up in by the frame/tank .

you might get creative and figure out something but don't plan on it being easy .
Thanks guys, was super tight but I was able to get the broken rivets drilled out and replaced with L9 hardware. Spent about 4 hours yesterday, had to get a come along and a tree saver to pull the axle forward. After 1.5 hours of cursing like a sailor trying to get the leaf spring bolt through the hanger and leaf spring (aligment issues), it dawned on me, " Use a C clamp you DOLT!!" 20 minutes later everything was wrapped up and I was out for my maiden voyage.

Put about 15 miles on her yesterday around town, then rechecked everything. Will recheck again when I get home from work today, 40 mile round trip.


So, New years eve was a blast.....

Trailer was a lil skinny

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And short

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The trip-o-meter when I got in to head home, hence her new name, "White Devil".


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Yesterday, got the new L9 hardware in.

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Axle needed a little motivation to move forward.

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Got her all buttoned up about 5pm, Again thanks for the words of wisdom guys!!!
 
Sweet deal!

Never heard of L9 up until I read it just now, googled it and kinda makes me wanna go and replace all of my bolts lol.
 
bolts to hard will just pop . ..

guy I know use to build overhead cranes from 1ton - 400ton+ and said grade 5 was max .

you want the bolt to stretch and pop . not just pop . .

side note : don't hook a steel cable back to its self on the hook like this . it hurts the cable and can kink it and damage it .
 
bolts to hard will just pop . ..

guy I know use to build overhead cranes from 1ton - 400ton+ and said grade 5 was max .

you want the bolt to stretch and pop . not just pop . .

side note : don't hook a steel cable back to its self on the hook like this . it hurts the cable and can kink it and damage it .
Thanks for the heads up.:thumb:
 

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