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frame boxing

kywanderer

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I am wanting to box the the frame on my 85 ford. Is there a particular type of steel to use? (cold rolled?) And what thickness? Same as the frame or thicker? If thicker, how much thicker?

Thanks:bow:
 
heres what u do.
Step one. take ur right hand and slap yourself across the face
Step two go to the local hardware store and buy a for sale sign
Step three fill out sign
Step four Tape to windsheild!
Step five BUY A CHEVY
Lol sorry couldnt resist!:haha:

I would just get some 3/8 or 1/4 and use that.
I used 3/8 2" wide strips and welded them in at a couple of stress points on mine rather than a full box.
 
Much thicker than stock will create more stress than it relieves. Not to mention the unnecessary extra weight.

Really, the best way to make a frame stiffer is to build a load bearing cage & leave the boxing plates off.
 
slyguy_22 said:
heres what u do.
Step one. take ur right hand and slap yourself across the face
Step two go to the local hardware store and buy a for sale sign
Step three fill out sign
Step four Tape to windsheild!
Step five BUY A CHEVY

i agree but here's my quicker two step process:

step 1: put the furd turd in a coffin & bury it
step 2: BUY A K5.


:haha:
 
ntsqd said:
Much thicker than stock will create more stress than it relieves. Not to mention the unnecessary extra weight.

Really, the best way to make a frame stiffer is to build a load bearing cage & leave the boxing plates off.
I disagree.

Yes, building a frame mounted cage will significantly stiffen the frame but (generally) a cage will only stiffen the middle third of your frame causing cracks near your cage mounts. Ideally, you need to stiffen the whole chassis and then you end up with lots of tube and not much K5.

If you want to box the frame (which is a good idea, IMO, at least in critical areas), use the same thickness as the frame.
 
boxing a frame that is as flat out weak as a K5 frame can create a lot of stress points as well. You just created 2 large heat affected zones all the way down that frame rail.

I agree with ntsqd. Cage is a much better option to stiffen up a chassis.
 
sled_dog said:
boxing a frame that is as flat out weak as a K5 frame can create a lot of stress points as well. You just created 2 large heat affected zones all the way down that frame rail.

I agree with ntsqd. Cage is a much better option to stiffen up a chassis.

Does this also apply to 3/4 ton Suburbans? Or are the frames that much different?
 
sled_dog said:
boxing a frame that is as flat out weak as a K5 frame can create a lot of stress points as well. You just created 2 large heat affected zones all the way down that frame rail.

I agree with ntsqd. Cage is a much better option to stiffen up a chassis.

i beg to differ. if you do it right, boxing the frame will leave no stress points, but that's if you take the time to do it right. i just boxed up everything except the rear most section of my frame, the part where the shackle hanger is on the front, and front most part. once i get my 'cage built, it'll be tied into these non-boxed areas as well.
 
38377k5 said:
I disagree.

Yes, building a frame mounted cage will significantly stiffen the frame but (generally) a cage will only stiffen the middle third of your frame causing cracks near your cage mounts. Ideally, you need to stiffen the whole chassis and then you end up with lots of tube and not much K5.

I did say "Load Bearing" meaning that ALL loads are fed into the cage, not just those in the passenger area.

Given that the stock frame was designed to flex and twist so that it doesn't crack and break at the cross-member attachment points as well as other load application points, boxing the frame needs to be done with a lot to thought and care. Not just to boxing it, but also to modifying how all of the cross members attach to the now boxed frame rails. Merely welding the cross-members to the rails & boxing plates may or may not be good enough. I've never cared to study it so I've no idea.

If this was such a good idea, why don't the premier K5 vendors who think thru their products & engineer them carefully, like ORD, offer a kit to do this? GM's design is a masterful piece. Some of them have been in normal, even HD normal service for nearly 35 years. To improve it is going to take re-engineering the whole thing. I wouldn't be surprised if someone like ORD was working on a whole new frame based on box tube. That would be a much better way to go. It is how Bud-Built was first started, to build brand new yota frames.
 
boxing a frame that is as flat out weak as a K5 frame can create a lot of stress points as well. You just created 2 large heat affected zones all the way down that frame rail.

I agree with ntsqd. Cage is a much better option to stiffen up a chassis.

I am going to beg to differ. Like said above take the time and do it right. and the only way to do it right is to do the whole damn thing. then for overkill tie the cage to the frame in at least 8 points.

the frames on these trucks are made to flex---its in their design. If you just box sections of the frame OR tie the cage to the frame in critical areas it WILL transfer the twist to another (weaker) part of the frame and will start to crack. I have gone over this time and time again and anyone can search you will find it as well as plenty of pictures on how I did mine.

Just for spits and giggles mine has ZERO frame flex and I go over the whole truck after a run and no cracks as of yet.

the driver front and pass rear are about 8" off the ground
flexxx.jpg
 
ntsqd said:
I did say "Load Bearing" meaning that ALL loads are fed into the cage, not just those in the passenger area.

Given that the stock frame was designed to flex and twist so that it doesn't crack and break at the cross-member attachment points as well as other load application points, boxing the frame needs to be done with a lot to thought and care. Not just to boxing it, but also to modifying how all of the cross members attach to the now boxed frame rails. Merely welding the cross-members to the rails & boxing plates may or may not be good enough. I've never cared to study it so I've no idea.

If this was such a good idea, why don't the premier K5 vendors who think thru their products & engineer them carefully, like ORD, offer a kit to do this? GM's design is a masterful piece. Some of them have been in normal, even HD normal service for nearly 35 years. To improve it is going to take re-engineering the whole thing. I wouldn't be surprised if someone like ORD was working on a whole new frame based on box tube. That would be a much better way to go. It is how Bud-Built was first started, to build brand new yota frames.

Good points all around :waytogo:
 
"With a blue oval stuck in my mouth"

I humbly appreciate all the info and input even though I personally own the blue oval. I knew you guys were great when I started reading through your forum while doing some part matching research for my 17 year old son. ( He's dropping a 350 chevy drive train into his 1985 jeep cherokee). Thanks again for the information. :bow:
 

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