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Frame boxing

53chevy

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Whom here has boxed their frame? How much of a difference did it make ? Im planning on using diy4x kit.
 
:raises hand:

it's a lot of work, and you need to think about how you'll be bolting every cross-member, mount, leaf spring hanger,etc. before you box it. You also have plumbing and electrical....

yes there is a noticeable difference for sure.

would I do it again? Prob not.
 
@skunked , I am a little surprised to see your response, but also relieved!!!

I talked a little about this with @Bent77 and had somewhat decided to not box my the frame of my project. Just had discussed a cage tied to the frame....


Now about the crossmembers, I have seen some hotrod guys put lightening holes in which, in my mind, would make access to the mounting bolts, or nuts for the factory style x-member. Maybe it would be feasible to leave the lines in there as well??? I also wondered if they would make it possible to wash the frame out....
Just thinking and asking.....
 
Going to box the frame where the leaf springs mount once the K5 tank makes me move the crossmember
 
Going to box the frame where the leaf springs mount once the K5 tank makes me move the crossmember
Would you explain your thinking behind this? I have wondered about a partial box job. The factory did this somewhat starting in the IFS trucks.

Thanks for your honest input, Orange Spice.....

Sorry to the OP for any distraction.....
 
Moving the factory cross member means no support directly behind the frame. I figured some reinforcement is necessary so the suspension doesn’t tweak the frame
 
Warn hu...??

He called me...

HEY!!!

Just because you actually wheel doesn't mean you can insult us nonwheelers. We have feelings you know. ❄️❄️❄️❄️
:surepal:


If I wheeled half as much as I wanted to, I’d probably need to box my frame

Not sure snow wheeling qualifies
 
Moving the factory cross member means no support directly behind the frame. I figured some reinforcement is necessary so the suspension doesn’t tweak the frame
Ah, I can't think at the moment of how the original K5 and suburban has the crossmember in relation tobthr spring hanger. Not that you have to stick with what the factory did...
 
Ah, I can't think at the moment of how the original K5 and suburban has the crossmember in relation tobthr spring hanger. Not that you have to stick with what the factory did...
No but I had pondered if you might snap some pictures of the last bit of the project frame. I’m sure there are some differences there, but never payed attention

Also one concern I have with the long wheel base is frame flex. It moves a long way. I really don’t want the frame broken
 
Warn hu...??

He called me...

HEY!!!

Just because you actually wheel doesn't mean you can insult us nonwheelers. We have feelings you know. ❄️❄️❄️❄️
Does it even snow down there? And not that brown snow you have to power wash off the frame
 
It never snows here, it only gets cold (mid 30's) for about 5-6 weeks in January/ February.

Btw that's not snow, those are my feelings. You called me a [gasp] Warn hub, now I'm hurt. I need a hug and a safe place. :flipoff7:
 
It never snows here, it only gets cold (mid 30's) for about 5-6 weeks in January/ February.

Btw that's not snow, those are my feelings. You called me a [gasp] Warn hub, now I'm hurt. I need a hug and a safe place. :flipoff7:
I know what that was. I refuse to acknowledge snowflakes! Warn hub licker!
 
Calm down Orange spice!

Boxing helps. Adding crossmembers helps more, adding a cage helps more.

Your trying to reduce overall flex and boxing will help each rail and thereby help overall rigidity. Adding in crossmembers will help even more as now you are helping reduce the twist between the 2 rails.

Adding a frame based cage will do more than either. But I realize that is not always an option
 
Calm down Orange spice!

Boxing helps. Adding crossmembers helps more, adding a cage helps more.

Your trying to reduce overall flex and boxing will help each rail and thereby help overall rigidity. Adding in crossmembers will help even more as now you are helping reduce the twist between the 2 rails.

Adding a frame based cage will do more than either. But I realize that is not always an option
Easy there Sasquatch

I am planning on putting a cross member before and after the tank. Was hoping to tie the frame boxing into at least one of those.
Pretty sure that end of my LWB k10 will never see a cage
 
@skunked , I am a little surprised to see your response, but also relieved!!!

I talked a little about this with @Bent77 and had somewhat decided to not box my the frame of my project. Just had discussed a cage tied to the frame....

I say that mostly for the reasons @blazinzuk mentioned about cages and crossmembers adding a lot of strength. IIRC I have a total of 6 crossmembers and that does not include the transmission/case crossmember/belly skid.

Also, the time I spent cutting templates, plasma cutting steel plate, grinding, fitting, more grinding, welding etc. I could have started with fresh STRAIGHT rectangular tube and built my own frame that was more accommodating in certain areas. You have to remember these frames are noodles, they bend every which way with random curves so working with straight clean steel tube is VERY enticing.

IMG_3561.JPG
 

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