CK5
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frame flex pic link
- Thread starter original balzer
- Start date
Fixed pic link
Yep, those are abnormal alright. Not enough difference in body lines.
Seriously, that's not much, and is probably average based on how you had the trucks for the pics. Depends how twisted up you get the suspension.
When you hear the roof wrinkle, you know you've pretty much maxed out the frame flex lol.
Yep, those are abnormal alright. Not enough difference in body lines.
Seriously, that's not much, and is probably average based on how you had the trucks for the pics. Depends how twisted up you get the suspension.
When you hear the roof wrinkle, you know you've pretty much maxed out the frame flex lol.
Dude, you ain't got no body mounts left. It looks like the underside of your box is swiss cheese. It shouldn't rhombus that much, especially with the tailgate on.
Now if you don't have a box or a core support tied to the cab there is a lot of frame flex (or, if you have two hockey pucks for a body lift). It doesn't matter if the frame is only 15' long or that it is structurally solid. There is nothing to tie it all together. Even new trucks with their hydroformed frames twist. It'll still suffer from wet noodle syndrome with nothing tying it together.
Now if you don't have a box or a core support tied to the cab there is a lot of frame flex (or, if you have two hockey pucks for a body lift). It doesn't matter if the frame is only 15' long or that it is structurally solid. There is nothing to tie it all together. Even new trucks with their hydroformed frames twist. It'll still suffer from wet noodle syndrome with nothing tying it together.
divorced said:
Yep. Would have been hard to tell without that chrome strip. 
MattK
1/2 ton status
is there a place to get new factory body mounts, or do you have to go with a BL to replace them?
Rubber ones you can probably get from LMC or even GM, but cost-wise, poly is probably a cheaper route to go.
No real disadvantage to poly body mounts, some people notice a rougher ride, some don't, that's about it.
No real disadvantage to poly body mounts, some people notice a rougher ride, some don't, that's about it.
Urethane ones squeak, transfer just about every pebble in the asphalt to the cab, and aren't much cheaper than GM OEM. My friend put Energy Suspension on his truck and it squeaks. It also is like riding in a unibody car... you feel everything and the road noise is atrocious.
Like I said, results vary. My truck doesn't squeak, and the ride is no worse than before.
Noise=movement, body mounts shouldn't be moving.
Noise=movement, body mounts shouldn't be moving.
They're supposed to move... otherwise there would be no rubber bushings. Not a lot... but maybe a quarter inch in either direction. The squeaking always seems to come from the lower half. I've seen them squeak on auto parts store ones also. The lower ring of rubber squeaks on the metal cup if I had to guess.
Brocky
1/2 ton status
I've seen alot of flexed out pickups. That is FLEXED. But it is normal. I seen new pickups flex almost that much.
CyberSniper said:
Did you lube them with the special formula lube that comes with the bushings? That lube is sent with the kit for a reason, you know.
Zeitler
Registered Member
thatK30guy said:Did you lube them with the special formula lube that comes with the bushings? That lube is sent with the kit for a reason, you know.
does the lube stay there forever or..? maybe it dryes out after a couple years
make them greasable ! put in a grease fitting or something
what happens with a blazer when it flex ? since the "bed" can't move like a truckbed can?
My energy suspension body mount sets didn't come with lube.
When Blazers flex, the roof wrinkles, and the doors bind up. Also, the topper splits along the seams at the back window.
When Blazers flex, the roof wrinkles, and the doors bind up. Also, the topper splits along the seams at the back window.
DavidB
1/2 ton status
Here's my .02
I've been on some SoCalBigDawgs runs with my brother...he (obviously) has a K10. I think a shortcab truck has an advantage over a blazer, SUV, Xtracab like my Dodge in that the cab and bed are separate and the cab is short. His body mounts are still dying tho (see his album and you'll know why). The back of the cab where the 2 mount are is slowly collapsing.
I have a Jeep CJ-7 (let the flaming begin) which as far as the body goes is like a blazer but smaller...I had a body lift on it and wheeled the pee out of it for years - we live in the middle of tons of 'froadin' and there's not much else to do here. Almost all of my body mounts are trashed, either punched thru the body or torn off it. I recommend using stock mounts (no body lift, cut your fenders!) and installing the bolts not-too-tight with some threadlocker to retain them.
Ideally (this is what I'm going to do, saw it in a mag) I think the bolts should have a spring (I've heard old valve springs work) under the head to allow it to pull up when the body and frame want to flex away from each other. A spring on top may help too, but it might allow the bolt to "wobble" too much and rip out the nut in the body. BTW, all the big water trucks, etc. that come thru our shop have the tanks, bed whatever mounted to the frame this way. Sometimes you can't make something strong enought not to break, so ya gotta make it flex. Kinda like secondary supension or something .
I've been on some SoCalBigDawgs runs with my brother...he (obviously) has a K10. I think a shortcab truck has an advantage over a blazer, SUV, Xtracab like my Dodge in that the cab and bed are separate and the cab is short. His body mounts are still dying tho (see his album and you'll know why). The back of the cab where the 2 mount are is slowly collapsing.
I have a Jeep CJ-7 (let the flaming begin)
which as far as the body goes is like a blazer but smaller...I had a body lift on it and wheeled the pee out of it for years - we live in the middle of tons of 'froadin' and there's not much else to do here. Almost all of my body mounts are trashed, either punched thru the body or torn off it. I recommend using stock mounts (no body lift, cut your fenders!) and installing the bolts not-too-tight with some threadlocker to retain them.Ideally (this is what I'm going to do, saw it in a mag) I think the bolts should have a spring (I've heard old valve springs work) under the head to allow it to pull up when the body and frame want to flex away from each other. A spring on top may help too, but it might allow the bolt to "wobble" too much and rip out the nut in the body. BTW, all the big water trucks, etc. that come thru our shop have the tanks, bed whatever mounted to the frame this way. Sometimes you can't make something strong enought not to break, so ya gotta make it flex. Kinda like secondary supension or something .
dyeager535 said:
Weird. Mine did. I noticed ES packages have been shipped in boxes lately and not in the "bubble wrap on cardboard" packages for me. Wonder if that had something to do with it?
Both my sets came in the cardboard boxes.
Can't complain about my mounts so far, have them in my car and truck, don't hear either one, which are not lubed.
Can't complain about my mounts so far, have them in my car and truck, don't hear either one, which are not lubed.
