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Frame paint

TJ1978

I have MANY questions
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What would you guys recommend to paint a frame?
I plan on removing the bed and cleaning everything up and might as well clean and paint the exposed portions of the frame on the c10..

I need affordable.
I was lookin at this will this also work for the rear axle and upper and lower A arms and core support?

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I’m not taking the cab off. Just the front and under the bed. Some flywheel action then paint. I’ll check the chassis saver as well, does chassis saver need the frame to be sanded or can I just brush over?
 
You can brush over light surface rust with chassis saver, it's a rust converter designed for farmers back in the day. Just need the major scale/dirt off first. No primer. Their paint cans are terrible quality and I usually buy lowes empties to transfer after opening their can. I have stuff I painted (over rust) 20 years ago that still looks new. Most people use Eastwood or por, though
 
I'd use the primer that goes with it too.
 
Farm store oil based tractor enamel. Van Sickle or the tractor supply house brand.

Very durable stuff. Takes a little longer to dry but when it does it's pretty darn tough.
 
I was just gonna say what @ZooMad75 and @Larry use.
:D
The major bummer for us is Big R which is based out of Pueblo dropped the Van Sickle brand. So we can't run to the store and get it anymore. Larry has been buying it by the case directly from Van Sickle. He uses so much if it I think he might end up being a brand ambassador on IG for it. One of the pics he posted on ig of his painted trans and t-case was one of Van Sickle's top nine posts on IG. Lol.
 
I like to use whatever cheap "rust" paint I can find. Then wipe the frame with used oil every few months after spraying it clean.

Preventing frame rust is more keeping water/slush off and less about protective coatings.
 
Imron is king,but out of the budget and ability of most do-it yourselfers to apply properly..

I have used mostly brush on Rustoleum or farm paint ,ACE Hardware "X-O Rust" enamel,when I'm not willing to spend the money for POR-15 or one of the other "rust converter" coatings..

Most of the vehicles I had apart far enough to paint the frames on,already were rusty and a lot of work to de-rust everything,and I felt it was not worth buying POR-15 for,the plain enamels held up pretty well,oil based is best to ward off rust,but dries slowly..

I agree its not so much what you coat or paint a frame with,its keeping it free of salt and dirt that holds moisture that keeps the frame from rotting..surface rust in itself is a sort of protective coating,its when water & salt gets into the pores of the steel and flakes it apart and becomes thin and weak..

Many old cars & trucks here that got washed underneath during winter months and had their drain oil sprayed back onto the chassis and floor undersides remained in remarkably good condition..
Undercoated ones often looked good,but had much rot underneath due to trapped moisture and salt..

When I mixed and sold auto paints,R-M used to have a black "chassis coating" factory packaged product that to me,was identical to driveway sealer,or roof coating, or even bead sealer used on tires..many body shops liked and used it...it was asphalt based and it clung well and didn't form pockets or flake off easily once it dried..
 
When I started on my truck it was( rust bullet)the thing to use,then there was the next best thing,,when i painted my floor,I used( rust guy) paint, it never rusted,but I never got out of the grage,,mabee this year.
 
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