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Freeze Plug replacement

Babaganoosh

Babaganoosh

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Sure as crap today after I flush out the coolant on the way home the freeze plug craps out. Could someone point me in the direction on how to easily get to it without a hassle? Is removing the head a good idea?

Thanks guys, really appreciate the help.
 
By "the freeze plug craps out" do you mean it started leaking a little or it rusted through?

If its just leaking, I would add something like Bar's stop leak. It works great and I've heard the OEM's use it all the time.

I don't think there are freeze plugs in the heads on a SBC, at least there aren't on my vortec and there weren't on my 882's.

Freeze plug replacement is really easy otherwise, I didn't even have to pull the headers to put a block heater in.
 
At the most you should have to pull the exhaust manifold on the side that is leaking (I didn't but every truck is different).

Drain the coolant (remove the plugs at the bottom of the block too), use a blunt punch to tap one side of the freeze plug into the block (it will only go in 1/4" or so) and then grab the other side with pliers and pull it out.

Clean the block and new freeze plug with brake cleaner or something like it, use some kind of sealer (I use Permatex, in a white tube and kinda looks like tar) and tap the new plug into place.
 
Yes, there are casting plugs behind the flywheel. You'll probably have to drop the tranny to get at it.

Before you assume it's coming from the rear of the block, make sure you don't have a leaky head gasket. Put a little time into establishing where the coolant leak is originating from before you start tearing things apart.
 
That is very true Paul, I just assumed it was from the freeze plug sense it's leaking in line with the freeze plug.
 
In between the oil pan and the starter its running down straight from the freeze plug. Thats as far as I looked at it tonight, dinner was ready and by the time I was done eating chow it was to dark.
 
I've had the same prob. Leaked on the driverside a little, so i changed them both, pulled the exhaust, motor mount, engine mount, and frame to crossmember mount, then the pass. side started to leak, so i changed the pass. side like i did the driver side. About 1 month later, the front of the motor started leaking and it was the freezeplugs again, so i pulled the motor and sure enough the rear plugs were rusted.

Once you fix one side the pressure will build up on the next weekest spot and start to leak. If i were you, id pull the motor from the start and change all the freezeplugs and anything else while your at it, its sooooooo much easier on the cherrypicker then in the truck.

Pulling the motor was also an excuse for me to address the steering brace project and reweld the radiator support in several hard to get spots.
 
Today after I got off work I had a little time to check it out. I found that the radiator was completely empty and it was still leaking in the same spot but little drips. :eek1: The bell housing on the tranny was wet to, I don't remember that with it up in the air Wednesday.

I'm most likely going to have it towed in tomorrow on my way to work, hopefully not by a ford.:doah: Thank god Mom has AAA.
 
yeah, and while you're at it, might as well just do a ring and bearing replacement, heck, it's out, may as well just get the head redone as well.:rolleyes:

even better, just do a Diesel swap
 
4xcrazy said:
yeah, and while you're at it, might as well just do a ring and bearing replacement, heck, it's out, may as well just get the head redone as well.:rolleyes:

even better, just do a Diesel swap
Click to expand...

I'm sensing a 6.0L Vortec and a 6l90e. :D


Got it towed in today, seeing it on the back of a flatbed almost made me strike a tear.
 
Found where it was leaking from, the freeze plug right next to the starter. I replaced that one and the one on the other side of the block sense it looked funky as well. Thank you guys for the replys.
 
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