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Freezing Ujoints....

jjlaughner

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Any links to info?
Is there anyone that sells the brass sleeves for a 10bolt spicer ujoint?
Is it worth the price? What breaks first... ujoint or the axle shaft ears?
I've got New spicer ujoints sitting here and spicer axle shafts. Probley in a month or so I'll be putting the axle back together and maybe under the truck. Looking for places, ideas and info... :ears: :thumb:
 
on the 10 bolt i ran the u-joint always broke if you could catch it you could save the shaft but 8-10 times the shafts went to.
 
Honestly sinkin a ton of money into a 10bolt is a waste. If yuo put in some super HD ujoints, you just increase the chance of blowin the shafts. Ive busted enough 10B parts already. I just go a lil easier on it til I can go to a d60. If you do upgrade yer ujoint, yuo should go to some chromo shafts, but not everyone sees it cost effective.

What ujoints are you runnin? Spicer 5-760's will be yer best bet. I havent busted anythin since I put a set in. They are probly the best available with all stock shafts
 
I have seen joints blow out and also shafts snap. The 10 bolts seem to break more at the ujoint then D44's do from what I have seen. I broke my first 10 bolt ujoint last run and replaced it yesterday. It stretched the ears on the stub shaft bad enough to make the stub unuseable. The inner is ok, but the joint is wasted. The bearings are shot.

As far as the strongest normal joint go with Spicer 760's. I am not sure where to get the brass bushings but if you find out let me know, I would like to swap into bushing too.

I would rather snap an inner shaft then a ujoint. It is easier to get the inner shaft out then trying to get the busted up ears out threw the knuckle hole.
Harley
 
I don't know anybody that makes them but you could measure the outside diameter of the joint and the inside diameter of the cap. This is the measurements you will need. If you are good you can find some thicker wall brass tubing and drill it to the proper diameter.
 
az-k5 said:
If you are good you can find some thicker wall brass tubing and drill it to the proper diameter.

If I was going to do that, I'd just use steel. :)

JJ is running the 5-760s, I sold them to him and personally delivered them.
 
AkMudr said:
Honestly sinkin a ton of money into a 10bolt is a waste. If yuo put in some super HD ujoints, you just increase the chance of blowin the shafts. Ive busted enough 10B parts already. I just go a lil easier on it til I can go to a d60. If you do upgrade yer ujoint, yuo should go to some chromo shafts, but not everyone sees it cost effective.

What ujoints are you runnin? Spicer 5-760's will be yer best bet. I haven't busted anythin since I put a set in. They are probly the best available with all stock shafts

So far I probley have a total of about $400 in a set of 14bff/10b with 5.13's, welded rear, open front, disk brakes and the 8lug conversion.... Thats about half what a D60 costs... BEFORE the cleanup or any repairs/upgrades. ANYWAYS.....

Yes 760's, I was just curious about the cryo freezing stuff and if anyone out there done it, had it done, or knows of places that do it. I'm sure it probley doesn't cost a great deal to do (places probely run batches). The brass bushings I would really be interested in, I see alot less chance of shock load fracturing a brass sleeve than tiny little steel pins. Seems like most of the posts I read its the ujoint that blows than takes out the shaft ears... I dont mine streaching the ears a bit as long as I'm not doing trail repairs (I have plunty of spares to swap in at home). Figure $40-45 for the joints, $40-50 to freeze and maybe $10 for brass sleeves Have $100ish in a set of ujoints, thats not to bad compaired to CMT joints I guess.
 

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