Front 10 Bolt/44 Pinion Nut Torque Spec.

[JoeAngelicchio]

I have the 86 GMC Shop Manual but it doesn't have the front 10 bolt for some reason (probably forgot to put it in). They have the 60, which will help me later. So for now I need the torque rating for the locknut (pinion nut) because I have to change the pinion seal. Need to make a tool to hold the yoke too.
Thanks

<font color=green>Joe Angelicchio
<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/jangelicchio>http://community.webshots.com/user/jangelicchio</a>
Lisle, Ontario, CANADA</font color=green>
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by JoeAngelicchio on 07/15/01 08:25 PM.</FONT></P>

 

[wayne]

I was told it is about 220 ft pd but still not positive and none of the books I have list it.

<font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>

 

[JoeAngelicchio]

I think that sounds about right. Will double check tomorrow with someone I know at National 4x4 here in Ontario since I'll need to order the bearing and seals kits for the 14ff and the 44 or 60(not sure which will go in first). The 60 is still on the crewcab. for now I just want to get rid of the leak at the pinion seal. Thanks Wayne.

<font color=green>Joe Angelicchio
<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/jangelicchio>http://community.webshots.com/user/jangelicchio</a>
Lisle, Ontario, CANADA</font color=green>

 

[Brian 89KBlazer]

Joe
I'll check my book when I go home but the way I remember from the book is to use an "inch-pounds" torque wrench and measure the drag on the pinion. You scribe a line on the nut & pinion prior to removal & reinstall it to the same point with the same number of threads showing. Then tighten until you get the same torque reading on the inch-pounds torque wrench as you had before.

In the meantime, when I had one changed in the rear of my 10-bolt; the garage just blew it off with an impact gun & popped the new yoke on with the impact gun again!! No leaks or problems.

Take care
Brian
89KBlazer

 

[Twiz]

Pinion shaft seal replacement;

-Unload drive train (remove pressure from gear set, get the tires off the ground or unlock front hubs)
-Check preload with a bar style torque wrench (in-lbs)
! -Mark the position of: Pinion shaft, Pinion nut, Yoke. (use something that can not be removed during removal/insatllation and cleaning)
-Remove the Pinion nut (use a large "pipe" wrench or chanel lock pliers might also work)
-Remove washer and yoke useing a gear style puller. Do NOT "tap" the yoke off from the back- Doing so may damage the pinion, or bearings etc.
-Remove the seal and be prepared to catch any gear lube that might leak out.
-Check the yoke for any grooves worn into the sealing surface, replace the yoke as needed (Someone also said there are "sleavs" avalibile- I've never seen 'em or used 'em) Use some red scotch-brite pad to polish the yoke sealing surface. Clean the yoke.
-Install new seal. Lubricate seal lip with wheelbearing grease, also some pack the backside of the seal to help keep the tensioner spring in place during installation.
-Use a sealent on the yoke splines
-Install the yoke/washer and nut
-Tighten the yoke nut the same number of turns as it took to remove. Check the alighnment marks, rotate the gears often to make sure the bearings are reseated.
-Alighn the marks up, Do Not go under, -Slighly- over is O.K., Streight up is best.
-Recheck bearing preload, If bearing preload is under, slightly tighten nut. If bearing preload is over, back the nut off and retighten. Do not over torque. (Resistance will increase alot when the prelaod is set, over tightening by hand is unlikely)

Twiztid

 

[JoeAngelicchio]

Thanks for the info Twistid, Brian and Wayne.

<font color=green>Joe Angelicchio
<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/jangelicchio>http://community.webshots.com/user/jangelicchio</a>
Lisle, Ontario, CANADA</font color=green>