Front 10 bolt experts

[Leadfoot]

K5RON had said that the carrier shims were outside the carrier bearings (at least I THINK that's what he said), so that pressing and unpressing the carrier bearings when setting up the differential would not have to be done (or just once if replacing the bearings). 1). Is this true? 2). How about the pinion bearing? Please respond only if you know for sure. I am planning on doing this soon and would like to know for SURE. Thanks in advance, this site is the best for K series questions and help.

 

[Emmettology 101]

The shims on the 10 bolt carrier are outside the bearings.... You set the carrier in and then the shims....

I dont remember on the pinion.. It has been a while since I played with a 10 bolt pinion.... I believe the bearing goes on the pinion, slide the pinion into its home and the slide the other bearing on. Once that is done slide the crush sleeve in and the the yoke and crsuh the sleeve to the proper specs.

I am sure someone else can go ino better detail...

<font color=green>MIKE</font color=green> - "Hukd on fawnics,werkd fer me!"
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://emmett.coloradok5.com>http://emmett.coloradok5.com</A>

 

[ftn96]

On 10 bolts, Yes the carrier bearing shims go on the outside of the bearing race.
The pinion shims do not. They go on the pinion then you pressthe pinion bearing on. This is just the large bearing, the one that goes at the bottom of the pinion. This is the one you would want to get an extra of an hone out so help get your pinion depth correct. Or you could get one of those pinion depth guage gadgets from Jeg's. But it looked like it would take another week to figure out how the hell it works.

Steve Fox for President, 2004.
Jimi Hendrix was re-incarnated in 1990 as my....JIMI

 

[Leadfoot]

I actually bought one of those pinion depth kits from Jegs, I will let you know how it works. I am probably a month or so away from doing the r&p's. Right now I am waiting to put in the K&P 700r4 in front of my NP205. I figure with my poor 3.42 gearing (in a 14 bolt FF no less), I should be able to go to 4.56's and stay at about the same highway rpm's in OD and also get a good low range for stump pullin'.

 

[bablazer73]

they are all right sofar. the dana axels have the shim under the bearings.

your right. I don't understand the jeep thing!

 

[ftn96]

"F" that dam guage from Jeg's. The directions suck. They give ok theory but no directions on how all the extra arms and shafts and crap work. I just did it the old fashion'd way. I assembled and ready the pattern. Then adjusted from what I got from that.

PS&gt; Who the hell is K&P????

Steve Fox for President, 2004.
Jimi Hendrix was re-incarnated in 1990 as my....JIMI

 

[Leadfoot]

K&P stands for Kevin and Paul. They have their own business rebuilding drivetrains (r&p's, transfercases, tranny's auto/manual) and specialize in 700r4 and 4L60 GM tranny's. They have built some 700's to go behind big blocks in mud runners, and fully truss the outer housing of the tranny (kinda cool looking) to keep the case from flexing under high torque loads, which is one of the causes of the internals giving way. They only drawback is in a stock vehicle, it usually requires floorboard and some firewall modifications and a big dent in the ol' wallet (but I figure it's worth it to keep from having to pull the tranny) .