I am in Idaho nothing is that far away. Mt. Home is about a 4 hour drive. I have a bunch of buddies that live over there
CK5
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Front 10 bolt gear swap?
- Thread starter Taylormade
- Start date
I am in Idaho nothing is that far away. Mt. Home is about a 4 hour drive. I have a bunch of buddies that live over there
Hold on, make sure you're making the right changes. What size tires do you run? Do you plan on anything bigger? Is it a gas engine or diesel? Which transmission? What are your plans for the truck (trail, highway, DD, etc.). 3.42 is only a good ratio for little stock tires, like 29-30".
After you regear that front 10-bolt it will be worth about $150 - so why put $250 worth of parts into it. Why not just go 8-lug now? You can probably swap the axles yourself and 4.11 is actually a useable gear ratio. Selling your 6-lug wheels and your s/f axle will bring in more cash than you need to buy 8-lug wheels.
If you must keep the 6-lug axles, just find a running front end with 3.42 and sell . Your 3.73 front is probably worth more anyway. Probably a dozen guys a week on this site pull out 3.08, 3.42 or 3.73 10-bolt fronts and have a hard time getting rid of them.
After you regear that front 10-bolt it will be worth about $150 - so why put $250 worth of parts into it. Why not just go 8-lug now? You can probably swap the axles yourself and 4.11 is actually a useable gear ratio. Selling your 6-lug wheels and your s/f axle will bring in more cash than you need to buy 8-lug wheels.
If you must keep the 6-lug axles, just find a running front end with 3.42 and sell . Your 3.73 front is probably worth more anyway. Probably a dozen guys a week on this site pull out 3.08, 3.42 or 3.73 10-bolt fronts and have a hard time getting rid of them.
No im not making the right changes. Just temporary to get the gears to match. Another major reason I have not gone with the 8 lug.....I moved it once by myself. Loaded it onto a trailer sideways (narrow trailer) took me 3 hours. I took it to my house and its been on that trailer ever since. Aside from the strength difference and the ff ability what other advantages do i get by making this swap?
To answer your question blue85. I dont "want" anything less than 4.11 gears, Im running 35s, 37s will be my next tire. 350sbc 700r4 the truck is only used to drive 15 miles to barnwell mountain, wheel, then try to make it home.
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
no idea how far you are from marble falls, but i have a front 10b i could sell you.
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
Being able to drive on a broken axle.
Just pull the broken axle out, put your cap back on and limp it home in 4wd
The main advantages are the strength, a decent gear ratio for free and better compatibility with future mods.
If the SF and 6-lug is your long term plan, that's fine. But why throw away money on a temporary gear ratio? Even the 4.11 is marginal with 35s. By the time you get to 37s you will want 4.88 (which is also OK with 35s since you have OD). I suggest you just go right there. The way I see it you are already committed to a gear swap at one end. The ratio doesn't really affect the price. Then selling your 8-lug axles will pay for the gears at the other end. If you can only afford to do one end at a time, just consider the rig a 2WD for a while.
Even if it's strictly temporary, why would you swap the front down to 3.42 instead of swapping the back up to 3.73?
Really sounds like you would be money ahead to swap in your 3/4 ton axles and buy new wheels.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
I'd consider the 4.11's to be the bottom line with running on 35's, that's what i'm running on, been doing it for a few years now, it's just a tad sluggish, but still useable on and off road, and i don't drive it like it's a sports car.....it's a 7000lb brick.
I REALLY wouldn't spend the money to regear if you have a matching set of 8 lug axles,,, $1000 +/- for one diff, or $200-500 for a new set of wheels in the 8 lug setup, then rtesel your 6 luggers to recoup some of the cash, also selling off the old 6 lug axles.
My truck came with 10 bolts, after breaking the rear withing a year of owning it, i installed a 14bff before i really knew anything about them. they are an awesome diff.
I REALLY wouldn't spend the money to regear if you have a matching set of 8 lug axles,,, $1000 +/- for one diff, or $200-500 for a new set of wheels in the 8 lug setup, then rtesel your 6 luggers to recoup some of the cash, also selling off the old 6 lug axles.
My truck came with 10 bolts, after breaking the rear withing a year of owning it, i installed a 14bff before i really knew anything about them. they are an awesome diff.
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
I got an amazing deal on a 14 bolt so i went for it. i sure as hell don't need it, but one of these days i will be glad its there. even though with 35's its over kill and kind of kills the ground clearance.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
overkill is much better than being unsure
I still have the 10 bolt front, and on the last outting, i broke the longside shaft right at the taper in the diff. Kind of annoyed me, cause i had JUST put brand new steer u-joints in those axles a week before heading out. I had never had a problem in the 4 or so years of running 35's with that 10 bolt, i tried to be easy on them, because of the unknown. Even when it broke i was supprised, cause i didn't think i really gave it much hell to do that, it wasn't very loud in the truck, but people outside said it sounded like something exploded.. Ah well, live and learn
Never yet have i had any issue with the 14bff, i have tried to shave some of the lip on the bottom off, got some of it, mostly rounded it, cause laying under there with a grinder, holding it up in the air trying to grind off the metal is a real chore after awhile, it's definately a workout for the arm.
I'm still voting the OP install the 3/4 ton axles with the 4.11's and spend the money on new wheels
cheaper, and less headache.
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
overkill is much better than being unsure
I still have the 10 bolt front, and on the last outting, i broke the longside shaft right at the taper in the diff. Kind of annoyed me, cause i had JUST put brand new steer u-joints in those axles a week before heading out. I had never had a problem in the 4 or so years of running 35's with that 10 bolt, i tried to be easy on them, because of the unknown. Even when it broke i was supprised, cause i didn't think i really gave it much hell to do that, it wasn't very loud in the truck, but people outside said it sounded like something exploded.. Ah well, live and learn
Never yet have i had any issue with the 14bff, i have tried to shave some of the lip on the bottom off, got some of it, mostly rounded it, cause laying under there with a grinder, holding it up in the air trying to grind off the metal is a real chore after awhile, it's definately a workout for the arm.
I'm still voting the OP install the 3/4 ton axles with the 4.11's and spend the money on new wheels
cheaper, and less headache.
x2 matching set is easier by far.
and screw shaving it. i'll just drag it and let it shave itself. =]
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
IT WON'T !!!
like i said, using the high speed grinder was a chore in itself...
would have been much easier if it was off the truck, and upside down to use gravity to help, just holding that grinder up with one arm, using the other to hold up the grinding arm was very tiresome.
If it's off the truck, do it then.
Well ive been talked out of doing a gear swap on the front. I understand the logic was not all there but it looked good in my head. I will go through the 3/4t axles this weekend since I havent done so yet. I know...shouldve done that at the time of purchase. For now ill run it 2WD. I put alot of effort in getting the 14bsf to fit. So I would like to get some use out of it.
The 3/4t axles came with white steel wheels 7-8" wide maybe?? Could I buy the diy beadlock kit for those, in order to widen the wheel and run my existing tires? Or is this another one of my logically flawed ideas? Rim size is the are both 16.5.
The 3/4t axles came with white steel wheels 7-8" wide maybe?? Could I buy the diy beadlock kit for those, in order to widen the wheel and run my existing tires? Or is this another one of my logically flawed ideas? Rim size is the are both 16.5.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
what size rim are you running now?
16.5's, me personally, along with alot of folks on here won't run them, not that great for running on low air pressure while off road, no saftey lip on them to keep them from popping off the bead lip of the rim.
16.5's, me personally, along with alot of folks on here won't run them, not that great for running on low air pressure while off road, no saftey lip on them to keep them from popping off the bead lip of the rim.
16.5 / 9.75. Ive lost a bead once. It was pretty lame. The weld on beadlocks would solve this issue right?
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
i was just thinking about that when i came back into this threadThat issue would be solved by doing the DIY beadlock he just asked about.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
good choice on doin the swap.i could not see paying to regear into a gear that will not be the best for your combo.i like my 35s and 4.10,but i have no overdrive which would help.i broke 3 12 bolts before steppin up to 3/4 ton.i havent had anything break yet.i got some weak u joints in the front as they ares till the stock 397x ones i believe.but as long as you are easy on them you can make them last.i will be stepping up to aftermarket shafts after i get my taxes back as i just dont see the point of a dana 60 with 35 inch tires being the biggest im gona go.the only real thing besides that is getting the rear drivedshaft reyolked to 1350 u joint as ive wore out the conversion joint a couple times already.
That issue would be solved by doing the DIY beadlock he just asked about.
Doesn't help the inner bead.
