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front 10 bolt wheel bearing

90'K5 said:
So the driver's side bearing is an old bearing the will fit on both spindles. Does the new bearing that doesnt fit the passenger side fit on the driver side?
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No. I tried to slide it on and it wouldn't fit on the driver's side spindle. I'm sure a hammer would make it go on, but that's no good.
 
British Slave said:
Did you polish the spindle?
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I rubbed it with several grits of sandpaper and a Scoch Brite pad, but I haven't used any actual polish yet. I don't know if that would help because the old bearing from the other side slid right on it. Of course that could be because the bearing had some wear on the inner surface. I may try to polish the spindle this evening and see if that helps. If it doesn't, I'm going to assume it's an issue with the tolerance of the I.D. of the bearing. I may go to NAPA and see if they have a Timken like the old bearing and measure it.
 
I used 220 or 240 then I used 400 grit and then the Scotch Brite. All the dark coloring is gone. I still think I have the wrong bearing though. The spindle I've been working on that was corroded now looks better than the other one! I think I've got it as good as I can.

Isn't there a thread with part numbers for a lot of bearings and u-joints and stuff? I'm going to do a search...
 
take your old bearing, the one that works on both sides with you when you buy the new one. compare them.
 
Well, just for fun, I went to Rockauto and looked up the correct bearing for that axle.
It shows as a Timken bearing number LM104912
Then I went to the Temken website, and found the following.

​
Nominal Bore Max. Inches 2.0000 Min. .0000

​
Bore Tolerances Max Inches 0.0005 Min. 0.0000

So, the ID of that bearing should be 2 inches.

FWIW, the other bearing numbers for that axle on rockauto are the same for National and SKF. They all use the same number.
 
How the heck am I getting only 1.90 then? Maybe my dial caliper is off, as well as the one at Autozone. I'll have to see if that's the part number they gave me. Thanks for looking that up.
 
I would be a little suspicious about those dial calipers.
If you don't have a standard like a gage block to check it against.
But the bearing number will be stamped on the bearing its self. Don't go by the box.
 
finally met with some success for once

I finally got the bearing installed. I was able to go to my local NAPA before they were closed the other night and talk to the old time parts type guy there about my bearing issue. He got out his calipers and measured the old one I had and the one that O'Wrongley sold me. The old one measured something like 2.003 and the new one was about 2.001. I don't know what the deal was with the calipers I was using. Maybe I wasn't zeroing them right or something. I looked at both the bearings and they both had the same part number, but it wasn't the number that Fordum supplied. I think it ended in 09.

Anyway, the NAPA guy sold me some 180 grit Emry cloth and I used it to sand the whole area where the bearing and seal go. This is what the spindle looked like after the Emry cloth:

P9250042.jpg


I put the hub/rotor assemblies back on, but they wouldn't get tight together for anything. Remember that I had got some new rotors from O'Wrongley the other day. When I put them on and spun them, there was a lot of clanking going on, but I thought maybe they would tighten up when I put the lug nuts on and torqued them up. Well guess what. I drove around the block and that's all it took to get the new bearings smoking hot. The driver side was okay though. I don't know if the rotors caused it or not, but I took them off and put the old rotors back on. I looked at how they were made and they have a counter sink that the new ones don't. That's why they won't get tight. O'Wrongley does it again. Maybe they would work with another kind of studs. Another reason why the bearings got hot could be that the way the Haynes manual says to preload the bearings is not always right. When I put them back together again I just turned the inner spindle nut while I turned the wheel until it felt right, like I usually do. Now the hubs are running cool again. Maybe I just wasn't following the directions properly.

Thanks for the help everyone.
 
looks cleaner..

I've never used a specific torque to tighten bearings down, grease 'em up, snug them up to where they feel right, maybe a hair more, reinstall everything and run 'em, never had one burn up or fail yet, and i've serviced quite a few so far.
 
The spindle nut procedure is tighten inner spindle nut to 50# and spin hub/rotor to seat bearings, then back off approx 1/4 turn. But the 1/4 turn isn't exact since you will most likely need to adjust it to seat the washer over the nipple is you have stock spindle nuts.
 
90'K5 said:
The spindle nut procedure is tighten inner spindle nut to 50# and spin hub/rotor to seat bearings, then back off approx 1/4 turn. But the 1/4 turn isn't exact since you will most likely need to adjust it to seat the washer over the nipple is you have stock spindle nuts.
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I think the Haynes manual said to tighten to 50 then back it off and re-tighten to 35, but that seemed really tight for some reason. The wheel would spin, but not as much as I would like. I think that's why it got so hot. When I put it back together, I did like 4XCrazy said. Seems to be okay. Getting that fixed and having the new ball joint makes the truck handle a little better. Still mad about the rotors though. I'll probably take them back when I take back the power steering box they sold me in May that is now making a loud popping sound and letting the pitman shaft wiggle all around.:mad:
 
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