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Front 10 bolt yoke

Leadfoot

Leadfoot

1/2 ton status
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I am going to purchase a 1 ton CV shaft from Jesse at HighAngleDriveline. The question is I would like to convert the 10 bolt yoke to accept a 1350 u-joint instead of the 1310/1330 (can't remember which it is). I know I can use a hybrid joint but it's only as strong as the weakest link, plus someday I WILL have a D60. Is there a way to modify the existing yoke, is there a yoke that you can buy, or am I SOL.
Thanks.

If you didn't built it yourself, how can you call it yours.......?
 
Probably the best thing to do it talk it over with Jesse! he would be able to tell you best!

<font color=green>MIKE</font color=green> - "Hukd on fawnics,werkd fer me!"
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/emmettology101>http://www.geocities.com/emmettology101</A>
 
Your 10-bolt front should have a 1310 yoke.
I 2nd asking Jesse. He knows his stuff.
-- Mike
 
Use a hybrid U-joint until you get your Dana 60, then just pop a 1350 in there and you're good to go.

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
2 Things:

1: The D60 uses the same u-joint as the 10 bolt and D44 (1310) that's why you can interchange front driveshafts 1/2 - 1 ton. You can buy a yoke though (I think for a rear D60) that is set up for a 1350 joint and convert the front D60 (Shawn at offroad.com did this).

2: I was just going to use a hybrid joint until I get my D60, but my fear is breaking it at the joint and having it ruin the driveshaft (after spending all the money) and/or having it take out the tranny pan or oil pan.

If you didn't built it yourself, how can you call it yours.......?
 
How come my stock driveshaft wouldn't fit with an axle from an '82 K20? The K20 had a smaller U-joint.

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
And how would you break the shaft with a hybrid u-joint? I'm pretty sure he'd give you a new one anyway.

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
To be honest, I'm not sure. I know when I installed my lift, I pulled the front driveshaft out of a K30 D60 and bolted it in to my K20 10 bolt (no mods to either), while I was having my K20 shaft lengthened. The only thing I can think of is was yours a D44? The D60 and 10 bolt share the same brake lines while the D44 is different (due to different banjo bolts), maybe the same with the yokes. Also it might be due to different transfer cases. Both shafts came off trucks equipped NP205 transfer cases. Is yours a 203 or 208?

If you didn't built it yourself, how can you call it yours.......?
 
It's not the shaft I'm worried about breaking, it's the joint. The other thing is I'm sure he would give me a new shaft free of charge if it broke, but would he pay for the cracked engine block or tranny from the driveshaft smacking it at 3000 rpm's? I am trying to avoid that in the first place, that's why I inquired about the heavier duty yoke, so that I can use the heavier duty u-joint, so hopefully I won't have to worry about anything breaking and hitting something else.

If you didn't built it yourself, how can you call it yours.......?
 
I guess...but I never go THAT fast in 4wd to worry about something like that happening.

No, mine never had a 44. Both trucks had NP 208s, bu the other truck had a TH 400, mine has a 700R4. The K20 shaft is shorter and has a smaller front u-joint. I'm actually worried it's too short. But anyway, why did it use a smaller u-joint?

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
There is a 1350 yoke available for the 10 bolt, I don't remember if it takes a different seal or not, but we have them both. Realistically, you will have a hard time breaking a driveshaft joint with a 1/2T front axle, I've seen a few D60 30 spl stubs break with a stock 1310 joint on the driveshaft. 1350's are nice insurance, I ran them on the 10 and 12 bolt with a 1310 cv in the front and a 1330 CV in the rear. Not exactly all matched up because it was changed several times, but the only thing that ever broke was axle shaft parts in the front. And ujoints never wore out!
I think the yoke is about $60 or so.

Making the world better, one truck at a time.
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SW-ORD
 
Stephen, do you know where you bought the 10 bolt 1350 yokes (Boyce, Dynatrac, etc)? I just want the added insurance, and it will make the swap easy when I put in the D60 with 1350 yoke. I do pulls with my rig (Built 400 high revving small block with angle plugged 2.02 heads, 11:1 compression, high RPM's and torque when pulling the sled) with my foot on the floorboard. I have outpulled 454's, 502's, 460's, PowerStokes, Cummin's, and waiting to see how the new Duramax's and Big-Blocks do with the new Allison's. I would hate to have a joint break at full throttle while pulling a 30,000+ lb object. Both front and rear are locked and I pound the Pi$$ out of them. The 14 bolt FF I'm not worried about and I've beefed the 10 bolt with all the aftermarket goodies, and fortuneately for me, most of my playing is in a straight line, so the axles shafts and universal joints in the knuckles are spared some. I bring it on trail rides, but those seem easy on the rig (stress wise) because I am never at full throttle on the trails, and I try to pick the straightest line possible (also very little rock-crawling in this area, I'm trying to find spots though, so if anyone knows of any in Western Mass please let me know). I just want the added insurance until I put in my D60. It's the old saying of paying a little now, or a lot later (when something breaks that I could have avoided). I don't mind spending money on my rig when it comes to piece of mind.

If you didn't built it yourself, how can you call it yours.......?
 
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