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front auburn, eaton or something else?

K

K5DRAGER

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Getting ready to change the front gears in my 10 bolt and am wanting to install some type of a limited slip. This truck is a daily driver with mild to moderate trail riding and of course for winter. Was wondering wich would be better an eaton, auburn, auburn pro, or something entirely different. Thanks
 
I have Auburn Pro Front and rear ......it will wear out, as will any cluth type LS.....the Eatons are rebuildable, and can be had with an optional 800lb spring....someone in here got theirs from Randy's I believe......I went with Auburn because of the moderate off roading I do, and because I roadtrip this truck fairly often ....it has probably the tightest torque bias available, and it's half the price of an ARB.....I don't need lockers or 6" lift or 38's for what I do.....I have Moly shafts in my 10B/12B and I run 33's (AT on 8" street/MT on 10" for play}.....mostly Black Dirt Mud in Texas......I have yet to find a mud situation which will overcome the bias in either Auburn......as much as I like my setup, I'd opt for the Eaton with the bigger springs since it's rebuildable.....I think that most clutch types have a tighter bias than the gear type LS.....any LS is more forgiving to your front end parts, so you don't break as easily as with a full locker.......they all work, you just need to decide how you are gonna use it most of the time......there is no wear on front with the hubs unlocked.....good luck.....JD

Stuck?...Hell no..I still got some gas left..
 
Go with a lock rite. I put a lock rite in the front of mine and love it. It works alot better than a limited slip.

86Jimmy 4"&35"MTRs,87 burb 4"&35"MT,69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
 
I would go ARB so you have some control of when you are locked and unlocked. Otherwise even the posi's I assume would affect steering and drivability in the snow and street, but I have never had that setup. My Old F#rd had a Detriot up front it made winter absolutly misrabale till I found an axle to swap it with.

-Mikey
1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>
 
An ARB would be best if you have lots of dough, But I use an Eaton posi and think it is great, I would'nt wish a 10 bolt with a locker on my worst enemy. From personal experience I found that a 10 bolt + locker = broken axles and finally a cracked carrier. Get something that will release before things break.
 
How is that eaton in the front? how is turning and driving on the road in 4wd? What spring are you running in it?

-Mikey
1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>
 
I would go with a Detroit TrueTrack. It is a torque sensing diff. Most LSD's wait till one tire slips and than limits that slip. The TrueTrack sends the most power to the wheel with the most traction so the tire with less traction will shouldn't slip in the first place. It is a copy of the Torsen that is used in the Hummer.

From what I have heard they will be making a locking version like a ARB only it will be a LSD when not locked. That is what I will put in my front end when it comes out.

'71 Blazer CST w/ a 400sbc, 4" lift, 36" Supper Swampers, and alot of rust
<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/triaged>See it Here </a>
 
I've had a 10 bolt + locker (ARB) in my front end for some time now, not one single problem. There is a gross misrepresentation of the 10 bolt on these boards - they don't break every five seconds like everyone says, at least not mine. I think it is mostly due to the way people drive, and I have expounded on this point innumerable times on here. For the ultimate in control, there is nothing quite like the ARB, with maybe the exception of the new OX Locker (but it is even MORE expensive than the ARB!) As you know, opinions are like *ssholes, everyone has one!

You need to sit down and be honest with yourself about how you really plan on using the truck - that will then lead you to your answer!

Just my .02
 
I have to back what Triaged says. Although I don't have first hand experience with the TruTrac, I do with the Torsen. This is "THEE" reason the HMMWV &amp; Hummers work so damn well: Torsens front and rear. I've driven HMMWVs with less than optimum snow tires (Wrangler MTs &amp; RTs) and have been impressed at all speeds. And you cannot feel it working (thru the wheel) up front, but it is! ARBs are nice but you usually don't use them cruising down the street when it turns slippery white.

If they made a TruTrac for my Dana 60 (front) I'ld be buying one tomorrow.

Real trucks don't have spark plugs!<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by DieselDan on 09/26/01 05:47 PM.</FONT></P>
 
Thanks for the posts. The ARB and full time locker is out not spending that much for the moderate wheeling I do. Leaning towards the Eaton since its rebuidable, going to check into the heavier spring for it though. But the Detriot Trutrac sounds interesting. Anyone here actually using one. How does it work?Is it rebuildable?Does it have clutches or cones? Are any of these noisy when turning like a full locker?
 
Tell me more about the Torsen? How is that in snow and crude in the winter. I would love to find something that would work in the snow and would make turning easy enough tor drive on tight trails and on the street... how is the turning w/ the front locked in?

-Mikey
1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>
 
Check out http://www.4x4review.com/products/drive_train/truetrac.asp

'71 Blazer CST w/ a 400sbc, 4" lift, 36" Supper Swampers, and alot of rust
<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/triaged>See it Here </a>
 
no warrantee on a true trac with tires over 33"
'humvee' and 'works well' in the same sentence, weird
 
cool write up. the true trac sounds sweet for a front end application. especially in snow and ice.

<font color=blue>"What does mine say?"
"SWEET! What does mine say?"
"DUDE!" </font color=blue>
 
Actually Torsen diffs are available for limited aftermarket applications through non-OEM sources. Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://www.reiderracing.com/diffs.htm>http://www.reiderracing.com/diffs.htm</a>.

I put a Torsen in the rear of my S-Jimmy this summer. It is VERY smooth as well as silent in operation. Raise a tire in the air though and it won't spin the tire on the ground.
frown.gif
But as long as there's some traction on each side, it keeps pulling you through.

<font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
It's a great day to be alive...
 
Yes '77,

"HMMWV works well" in one sentence. Better than them little Bombadier/VW/Fiats yours troops scoot around in, LOL. How many troops with gear can dismount that in a hurry? How do mount a .50 Cal on it and can you still return fire after it's "turned turtle" from the recoil? Just pokking ya, I love them little things, as long as I don't have to go to war in one.

Real trucks don't have spark plugs!
 
HarryH3,
Yea, the true track will do that as well, if one tire is off the ground. All you need to do is lightly apply the brake and it will lock. I put in a true track on my 77' k5 and it was great! (rear only)
 
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