FRONT AXLE FORWARD

[RUSS84K5]

Hi Stephan,

how will the cross over steering work with this. would a shorter pitman arm? wouldn't that limit steerinf radious?
If you have a good way to do this it would make tire/fender issues alittle better.

Thanks
Russ

 

[michaelm]

good question
does the draglink HAVE to be dead parallel?
what would be the effects of having it not?
i liked the way Steve Frisbie aka 85m1009 (hope i got the spellings correct) moved the box to a more desireable angle and relocated it forward with his 3 link

 

[Boss]

I know Titanic moved his about 1.5" or so and did not do anything with the pitman arm or steering arm, etc. He left everything the way it was and it seems to be working fine. I'm planning to move the front axle up too. I dont' think the draglink has to parallel. Seems, that it will still work in a slight angle.
Boss

Pic of my truck Before N' After
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BeforeNAfter>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BeforeNAfter</a>

 

[Twiz]

I've moved the front axle forward about an inch. Used 52" rear springs in th front.

That shortned the drag link, which is too short to begin with.
So, I moved the box forward and rotated it slightly, it's about 5 inches - I didn't go with the cross over steering.
I aimed the drag-link at the front spring eye ( slightly above it due to clearance issues ) With the idea that the spring arc and drag-link arc should be the same (or close), ths should really help with reduseing bump-steer and help keep the turning radius threw out wheel travel.

Testing it out in the garage;
Looks like it's going to work. I still have some bump steer (un-avoidable) and I loose alittle turning radius at max points in the suspension travel. Over-all, I like it and would do it again, but would have rotated the box a bit more, and moved the box a bit further forward.

The true test will be when the friggin' thing hitts the dirt, or the street, I'd even settle for the drive-way. I just want to see it out of my garage...

<font color=blue>Twiz</font color=blue>

 

[Stephen]

You can move the front axle forward, even several inches isn't going to chage things dramatically with crossover. Most guys go 1-2" which is fine. I've routinely run 1" with no problems.

YOU CANNOT MESS WITH THE PITMAN ARM LENGTH. The length of the pitman arm and steering arm are (should be) set to each other so that you have the proper steering ratio. Too fast and it's twitchy, too slow and you don't go to the stops.

There's not too much gain in relocating the steering box, unless you have clearance issues or major geometry changes in the suspension that dictate the change. Frisbie's worked out well, and it's not too hard to do, but the gains aren't huge in the actual steering action. It is a little better side to side motion, but don't worry about your box in the stock location.

twizted, I'd start looking into crossover, I haven't found anything to work about the factory type steering when you twist. You can't get the steering linkage close enough to the leaf spring to keep the axles fore and aft motion from messing you up when it articulates. I tried solid links to the axle and every steering correction techniqe that's sold and the crossover is still the best way. You can try it, but I think you're going to find that you still won't turn left when the left front droops.

Making the world better, one truck at a time.
SW-ORD
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>

 

[Twiz]

Thanks, but a bit too late for the advise. The box is moved and the rest of the mods have been done around it (and it wasn't easy). I hope it works O.K.. In the very least it should be better than stock.
The drag link is about 5 inches longer than stock. So the change in the arch is less, so it should be closer to matching the spring arc. -Right?-

I would have went with the cross over steering, but I wanted to keep the sway-bar installed (with ORD disconnects - I might add) Its a multi-purpose rig.

In the garage, packing the RF, I loose -about- a 1/2" (guessing- didn't measure it) from the steering stops in turning radius.

Hind-sight
I'd say the cross-over steering is the way to go, if you don't mind looseing the sway-bar. (some people on the boards, say the sway-bar doesn't do much when it's lifted any-way.)

Thanks for your time Stephan. (no questions, just talkin' shop)

<font color=blue>Twiz

 

[DieselDan]

IF the front axle is moved forward 1" (or more) is that enough clearance for a cross-over without a droped draglink or (much modified) crossmember?

Real trucks don't have spark plugs!

 

[Stephen]

I think you pretty much need a bend draglink and possibly minor mods no matter what you do. On my K5 with a re-built crossmember I still ended up bending the draglink a little just to get the tierod ends to clear all the time. That was with the 5" leafs.

Making the world better, one truck at a time.
SW-ORD
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>