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Front Axle off-center after lift??

chbracke

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Hey guys, my dad and I have been slowly working on a 1970 K5 for the last couple of years and have run into something a little strange. The blazer had a 4" superlift under it and we decided to bring it down to 2.5" so my dad could get in the truck without slipping a disc. We also wanted to attempt to tighten up the steering a little bit while we were at it and so we replaced the tie rod ends, draglink, balljoints and added a dual steering stabilizer setup. The new lift is an all-spring 2.5" Skyjacker kit with an ORD zero-rate in the rear to center the wheel in the wheel well and prevent butt-sag. Before we had all of this done, the steering was your classic steering in that it was unequal and had about 3 turns to lock in one direction and about 1.5 turns to lock in the other. Now when we went to go pick up the truck and drive it around to see if anything improved I noticed two weird things:

1. The front axle now appears to be off-center, causing the passenger side tire to stick out about 1.5" or so which simply cannot be right. It wasn't this way before and the only explanation I can think of is that springs were installed incorrectly or a spring pin broke after they installed it.

2. The second thing is that the steering is much tighter, but bumpsteer seems to have become worse and the turning radius has been reduced to a major extent. The steering wheel goes 1.5 turns to lock in both directions, after the guy at the shop said he worked on it forever to get it even in both directions. After the recent work, with the steering wheel turned all the way to either direction, the tires only turn about 3-4 inches at a maximum. The guy at the shop offered no suggestion as to why this was the case and seems to think it's entirely normal. I know the radius is reduced with a lift and bigger tires but I would think that going from 4" to 2.5" wouldn't change anything, much less make it worse somehow. Especially since we only run 33" tires with stock steel wheels (no off-set). The only thing I can think of is that the old steering arm was not replaced and might be a longer arm that was added with the old 4" lift. The draglink is no longer horizontal like it used to be and is slightly higher in the rear than the front which makes me think the steering arm is longer than stock and needs to be replaced with a shorter one. Anyhow, I left the truck at the shop so they could think about how they propose to fix it.

Anyone run into this or a similar problem? I'm starting to think about saying screw attempting to fix this stock steering setup one piece at a time and just asking ORD to put together a low-lift crossover conversion kit. Since my dad no longer has the physical capability to work on the truck with me and we have to pay for a shop to do the work anyways, it might be worth the difference in cost just to go that route and hope it solves the bumpsteer at the same time as it solves the turning radius issue. The last thing I want to do is start going through the stock setup one part at a time only to find that once one problem is fixed, another one arises. I've been down that wormhole-type repair cycle before and it's always waaaay more expensive...

IMG_2763.JPG

IMG_2764.JPG
 
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P.S. Not sure why the pics are sideways but what can I say? I aren't good at word processing machines...
 
I'd guess one side the spring pin head is not in the perch hole...although even if it is, there is always a slight difference side to side. Any slight twist in the springs when manufactured will do that to it. If it's in the springs, there isn't much you can do other than add a panhard bar.

As for steering, what steering correction were you guys using before? Raised steering arm or dropped drag link? I'm guessing dropped drag link, and the shop replaced that with a stock drag link when they were doing the rest of the front end work. Getting the steering centered is not an hours long ordeal...10 minutes work tops. Sounds like he was padding hours there IMO.
 
I am running 35" tires on mine with 6" of lift and my steering radius is fantastic. I turn sharper than my car. Yours is definitely not "normal". Something is limiting your steering. If you can, get some pictures of the various steering components.

Also, I would try unhooking your steering stabilizers. There is a decent chance they are limiting your steering. Honestly, If all of your components are in good working order you shouldn't need a stabilizer at all. I had dual stabilizers for awhile trying to solve similar issues but once I fixed my tie rod ends, ball joints, etc I found I didn't need them.
 
The bad turning radius and bump steer is caused by your draglink. It should never be "UP" in the rear. It should be close to level or slightly higher in the front. Fix that first. Make sure the leafs are sitting tight to the axle too, otherwise that centering pin Rene mentioned might not be in place.

Your steering should return with the proper pitman arm or axle arm. You should be able to hit the steering stops, located on the front side of the knuckles. My 5" lift w/38s will make a circle inside my stock s10. :D
 
I appreciate the help guys. I'm not sure of what steering correction was in there before since it was all left over from the PO from along time ago. I'm going to have to bust out the tape measure and see what is stock and what isn't so I can figure out my starting point. I'll also definitely check on the centering pins to be sure one or both aren't up out of the perch holes. Luckily any of the parts that were replaced are being saved so it'll be easy to tell if what was used before. I seem to recall the original draglink was straight so I think the steering arm was a longer one. The PO also said it had a 6" lift and we determined it was a 4" so it's even possible he made 6" steering corrections for a 4" lift. If he used 6" lift steering correction parts, that might explain the steering geometry going from bad to worse when we reduced the lift from 4" to 2.5". Thanks again for the suggestions and I'll keep you posted as I weed through the mess. (And get some more pictures up)
 
Pics Pics Pics

I went and did some looking at the shop and snapped a ton of pics. I actually see some things that are bothersome. First, I'll post pics of the steering arm/draglink/pitman arm. I would say that the steering arm is definitely one for a lift correction but what do you guys think? Also, do you think this pitman arm has a drop in it or that it's a regular stock one?(FirstPic)

I'm noticing that the steering stabilizers might be limiting the turning radius after all like ashman had mentioned. The second pic shows the travel available in the stabilizer on the driver's side with the wheel straight. While this leaves plenty of room for turning to the left, it doesn't leave a lot to steer left. The one on the passenger side is just the opposite. The third and fourth pic show the driver side tire when the wheel is fully left and fully right. Ain't no way that could be right...

Another thing I'm seeing is that the front shocks seem to be too long and not have any room for compression. You can see what I'm talking about in the last 5th pic.

DragLink&SteeringArmWheelLeft.JPG

DriverSideWheelStraightStabilizerCompressed.JPG

WheelFullLeft.JPG

WheelFullRight.JPG

DRSideFrontShockCompressed.JPG
 
More Pics

Again, still not sure why the pics are being posted sideways...I checked each one before I submitted the post and they were normal...oh well. The passenger side front spring looks like it has one of the bolts a little poorly bolted down so I'll have to see if that addresses the off-centered axle. The u-bolts in the rear seem a little odd in that there's daylight in between the zero-rate/shim and the ubolt-does that seem normal to you guys? Thanks for all the help. I get really critical of the details of things so it's helpful to have someone with an objective point of view to tell me whether or not I'm being neurotic :eek1:

DRSideRearUboltDaylight.JPG

RearUboltDaylight.JPG

PassSideRearUbolt 2.JPG

DRSideRearUboltZeroRateNarrow.JPG
 
I would take off the corrected steering arm and put a stock one on it, get shorter shocks, and call it a day.
 
I would stop at that but since I'm going to have to pay the shop that did the work for their time, I need to be sure that they spent the time doing the work correctly. Otherwise, I end up with the double whammy of not only having paid a shop to do the work but also with nothing better than when I began...
 
First I'll say that the springs look like they are sitting correctly on the perches to me. If the spring bolt wasn't in the hole it would be obvious.

It's hard to tell for sure with the boots on, but I'd say that your shocks are too long. That shouldn't affect your steering but there is a decent chance your stabilizer is too long as well. The first thing I would do is remove the stabilizer and see if the steering problem goes away. It's super simple to do so it's worth a quick check.

Your steering arm (the one bolted to the axle) is for at least a 4" lift. The stock arm curves down not up. I found this image to illustrate:
DSCN1529.jpg


I don't know for sure if your pitman arm (the one attached to the steering box) is incorrect or not. But, when you are going straight I believe it is supposed to stick out straight to the drivers side. If it is not then you need to shorten, or lengthen the drag link to achieve that result. My guess is that your drag link is too long since your pitman arm is incorrect.

That is my best guess. good luck.
 
Good news, swapping in a stock steering arm and shorter steering stabilizers fixed the limited turning radius problem. The axle is still off center slightly but from looking around under there, I think the frame might not be exactly true and causing it (I hope not). I'll need to measure the frame rails then the diagonals to see if that's the case. Thanks for the suggestions!
 

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