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Front axle shaft U-Joint replacement

Chrisblazzer89

Chrisblazzer89

1/2 ton status
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OK so I realized that my front passenger side axle shaft U-Joint is junk 2 caps have no needles in them:eek1:. So I don't want to pay an arm and a leg to get them replaced so what do I need to do this repair and what is the procedure?

1. Get replacement u-joint What kind/ part number?

2. get hub tool.

3. now what????

Plz guys and gals help fill the rest of the list/procedure

Thanx in advance.
 
Chrisblazzer89 said:
ok so now i know how to replace the u-joint. Thanx!!!:D

Now i need some one to tell me what i need to remove to get to the axle shaft?
Click to expand...

Remove tire/wheel

Remove brake caliper. (2 screws uses large 3/8" allan head)

Pull locking hub. Should use a small allen head.

Locate large snap ring in the rotor hub (the snout if you will) pry that out. It is about 3" around. Use 2 screw drivers

Locate small (1.25" or so) snap ring on axle shaft stub (might not be there). Remove with snap ring pliers or straight screw driver

Install 2 screws back in hub body (w/o locking cap) opposite of each other
pull straight on screws to remove body.

Look down hub snout, see spindle nut.
Remove with hub key

Look down hub snout, see ring with holes.
remove (can use vise grips holding the long side of smaller allen tool to pry and pull it out)

Look down hub snout, see another spindle nut
Remove with hub key

Pull off hub/rotor, may take an extra yank to free the seal.

Remove spindle (9/16" socket, 6 nuts), small tapping w/rubber hammer may be needed (don't hit threads on spindle or bolts)

Pull axle shaft out and replace u-joint.

Careful when putting the shaft back in since there is a seal just before the diff you need to clear.

There are a lot of steps (I kinda wrote it in beginner for future searches) but they go by quick. Should have it out in 30-45mins your first time. You will eventually get to a point where you can tear it down and put it back in just under 30 mins w/o power and just over 20 mins w/power.

This is based on AZ vehicle conditions. Tapping may lead to whacking, and yanking may lead to prying in other parts of the country.
 
ok thanx. Now a ? off topic I will most likely replace my bearings an this point how do i go abouts doing that? and How do i pack them with grease?
 
pull em out, put the new ones in. did you by chance see mannys bearing packer? it was perdy cool. you can put the bearing in a ziplok bag and fill it with grease like that too. then when you put your bearings back on torque the inner nut to 50 pounds and back off and retorque to 35 pounds. then put your locking ring back on and torque the crap outta the outer nut, 150 pounds. you may or may not need to get bearing races. i would just in case.

also check this out:
http://dyeager535.topcities.com/partsmanual.html

this helped me a ton too! lol
 
just call around and ask for that part number, i have never bought spicer new cause ive never broken one but it would guess ~$30 each.
 
obijuan said:
just call around and ask for that part number, i have never bought spicer new cause ive never broken one but it would guess ~$30 each.
Click to expand...
X2 and obijuan that is the best avatar EVER!!! :saweet:
 
i found the best prices on my ubolts from a local spring shop. they came out to be 11.25 each! but thats the best i could do here. theyre are superb quality and made on the spot. theyre 5/8 ubolts so theyre pretty expensive steel, then the labor. but check for a local spring shop in the phone book.
 
Chrisblazzer89 said:
where would i get these at? napa, advance auto parts, or auto zone?

and what should they cost me?
Click to expand...

I got my 5-760 Spicers from 4wheelcustoms, a member/vendor on CK5. IIRC, they were like $18, but that was a while ago.
 
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