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Front axle tear apart tips?

N

nsxxtreme

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I'm finally getting around to tearing apart my front 10 bolt axle so I can pull the 4.56's out and replace with 5.13s.

I've already swapped the rear axle out for a SF 14 bolt with electric locker and 5.13's. I'm not looking for a debate about how much of a turd the 10 bolt front axle is. I already know that. My truck has 35" tires and sees very light 4 wheeling and I have no intention of installing a locker.

I'm looking for tips as far as tearing out the front differential. Basically what's different then the rear and tricks to make my life easier.

Thanks in advance.
 
Did you build the rear axle? If so, it's not really any different except for the mssy bearing grease.
 
Id change the axle tube seals and spindle bearings while your in there.
 
If you have the proper spindle nut socket it makes it alot easier. Other than that nothing really, pretty easy to do overall. Make sure when you are pulling the axles out the knuckles are straight, if they are turned it can make it hard.

Pretty easy to do. If you are doing your own gears make sure to mark the bearing caps BEFORE you take them off. The 10 bolt front is a decent axle overall, its the rear 10 bolt that sucks
 
sweetk30 said:
new spindle bushings better than bearings

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/products/New-Dana-60-&-44-&-30-Spindle-Bushings.html

.
Click to expand...

Pleasse elaborate on this.............

the 10 bolt is easy...sure theres more parts to take off but once you get the hub locks, calipers, rotos and spindle out its smooth riding from there...X2 on the inner seals, replace while you have eveything out just be carefull when you tap it in, we messed up one here and had to go around town trying to find one.
 
I could see the bushings being better than the bearings. When i did the blazer last year the bearings were siezed up. But who knows how many years old they were.

As long as one puts new seals on the stub shaft and a new bearing with a lil bit of grease it should last a long while id say.

I also found the the spindle nut socket works good for seating inner axle seals.
 
nvrenuf said:
Did you build the rear axle? If so, it's not really any different except for the mssy bearing grease.
Click to expand...

Yes

So far I got spindle bearings, tube seals, and spindle nut socket. What's special about the socket? Is it a common tool or something I have to special order?

Thanks for the tips!
 
Its just a special socket around 2.5" in diameter and has 4 prongs on it that remove the spindle nuts. You can use a punch and hammer to remove the socket, but you should use a hub socket to install.

If your removing/changing the hub seals, the best thing to do is remove the spindle nuts, pull the outer bearing out, put the spindle nut back on the spindle a few threads and pull the entire hub assembly, this will pop the inner hub seal off and leave the bearing on the spindle so it doesn't fall out, and its easier then using a seal puller or skrewdriver/prybar. That is how I do it so I can reuse the hub seal again and again after packing the bearings.
 
You can get the spindle nut socket at Autozone for about 12-15 bucks. Very handy to have to ensure your spindle nuts are set to the right torque.

Btw, whatcha plan on doing with the old 4.56 gears? I'm looking for some to change out the 3.73s on mine.
 
Amtek said:
Btw, whatcha plan on doing with the old 4.56 gears? I'm looking for some to change out the 3.73s on mine.
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Want to buy them? I'll sell them for cheap $50 plus shipping assuming I can get the pinion out without damaging it. I only have the fronts as the rear exploded in my old 10 bolt.

I'm farely sure these gears have very low miles on them. They came with the truck when I bought it and the guy had just put them in. I would gestimate maybe 2000 miles on them.
 
I would be very interesting in buying them from you as long as they're in good shape and verified 4.56 ratio. Can you PM me your email? It might be a little while till I can get the funds. Got laid off a while ago, have lots of time to tackle projects like these but not alot of money, lol.
 
Amtek said:
I would be very interesting in buying them from you as long as they're in good shape and verified 4.56 ratio. Can you PM me your email? It might be a little while till I can get the funds. Got laid off a while ago, have lots of time to tackle projects like these but not alot of money, lol.
Click to expand...
There definately 4.56 the only question would be if I can get the pinion out without damaging the threads. I'm in no hurry I haven't gottent over to my friends house to start taking them out anyway. When I get it out I will PM you if it's in decent shape.
 
sweetk30 said:
block of wood or rubber/plastic faced hammber will smack the pinion out with no problems. :thumb:
Click to expand...

The last one I did the block of wood just split and a rubber/plastic faced hammer didn't budge the pinion in the smallest amount.

I figured I would go buy a brass hammer but was amazed at how hard it is to find a brass hammer with any kind of weight these days. I had to screw a nut on the end of the threads and smack the crap out of it with a 5lb sledge hammer.
 
sweetk30 said:
i know i have built a few axles from 8.8 ford to 14ff rear.
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Maybe the one I did was just a pita. On that axle I didnt care because I had no intention of saving the stock pinion and ring gear from the SF 14 bolt axle.
 
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