I changed the details on the ends before I was finished, but the list I took to the steel yard is in there.
To get the angle on the front, I scored that diagonal line on the backside of the piece, bent it, then welded it up. That kept the front very clean and straight with no weld to dress up. It's bent back so that the outside corner is 3" behind the front of the piece - the same as the overall channel thickness.
The clevis tabs are welded directly to the frame brackets, which puts them entirely in the 3/16" material of the front, not in the 1/4" center at all. So the rectangle for the clevis tab can be cut in the edges of pieces 1 & 2 before they are welded to 5 with no fancy tools required.
The fairlead opening is shown as a rectangle here, but I actually made it an oval, by doing both ends with a hole saw, then cutting the top and bottom straight across with a cut-off wheel. You just need to match all of that up with whatever fairlead you have. With the winch mounted directly to the front panel, there is potential for the fairlead mounting bolts to hit the winch - meaning you can't put a nut on the back. The simple solution is to use a fairlead that has the same mounting pattern as the winch so they can share all 4 bolts. These are not uncommon. The fairlead I used has a dual mounting pattern, but the vertical distance differs from the winch. So the top 2 bolts are dummies - there are threads cut in the bumper itself and the bolts don't go through (but this does work for the flag mount, when that is on). The outer 2 holes have real bolts and the lower 2 are shared with the winch.
