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Front CV rubbing the crossmember out of the blue.

Phil513

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So, this is new. My front CV started rubbing on the crossmember. Never did that before. The joints in the CV seem tight, no wiggle, but I'm guessing that means the CV must be going out? Been through 2 Blazer Bashes and never rubbed before.

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Maybe the t case has sagged down, or possibly you had the passenger front extended all the way down?
 
Maybe the t case has sagged down, or possibly you had the passenger front extended all the way down?

I was just going down some easy two tracks, wasn't stretching the suspension at all. It rubbed every time I just went up an incline. Really weird. I'll check the T Case mounts.
 
look at all the engine and trans mounts and bolts just for s&g

I think I found it. Looks like the passenger side motor mount screwed the pooch. It seems to be hanging low compared to the driver's side.
 
I was going to say mounts. Unfortunately the stock replacements don’t seem to hold up. I know mine didn’t last 6 months. I ended up doing the ord mounts.
 
was going to say engine mounts .

and stock style replacement o.k. for street but lots of guys here report offroad dont last long .
 
This same thing happened to us at BB17. The problem wasn't from a bad motor/transmission mount. It was because I added 4" more lift and didn't do a trial run. I didn't find out until we got to Hell's Revenge and was going up the first set of fins at the start of the trail. We heard a clunking noise and thought maybe the front differential was going out. It only made the noise when we were going up an incline. We finished the trail without any issues. Just had to listen to that noise and wonder what was going on.
At the BBQ that night, I talked with Jack and he pointed me in the right direction. Saturday morning, before the next trail, I crawled underneath and sure enough the lobes for the u-joint was wearing down rather quickly. I knew, for safety's sake, we were done for the rest of BB. I realized, after we got home, that I could of added some spacers on the crossmember, but that would have only been a bandaid. And the lobes were wore down pretty good. We didn't feel safe with trying to go on any more trails so we called it quits.
We did get to go tour the Arches and stuff so it wasn't a total loss.

Glad you found out the issue and are correcting it. Way to go. :waytogo:
 
While it's sometimes considered hack, I'll mention that the 1" front driveshaft spacers help a lot with crossmember clearance. Obviously all the mounts need to be good, driveshaft the right length and adequate slip on the driveshaft is needed. I'm just saying that getting good suspension travel up front (on leaves) requires more than a single trick to make the front driveline work.
 
This same thing happened to us at BB17. The problem wasn't from a bad motor/transmission mount. It was because I added 4" more lift and didn't do a trial run. I didn't find out until we got to Hell's Revenge and was going up the first set of fins at the start of the trail. We heard a clunking noise and thought maybe the front differential was going out. It only made the noise when we were going up an incline. We finished the trail without any issues. Just had to listen to that noise and wonder what was going on.
At the BBQ that night, I talked with Jack and he pointed me in the right direction. Saturday morning, before the next trail, I crawled underneath and sure enough the lobes for the u-joint was wearing down rather quickly. I knew, for safety's sake, we were done for the rest of BB. I realized, after we got home, that I could of added some spacers on the crossmember, but that would have only been a bandaid. And the lobes were wore down pretty good. We didn't feel safe with trying to go on any more trails so we called it quits.
We did get to go tour the Arches and stuff so it wasn't a total loss.

Glad you found out the issue and are correcting it. Way to go. :waytogo:

While it's sometimes considered hack, I'll mention that the 1" front driveshaft spacers help a lot with crossmember clearance. Obviously all the mounts need to be good, driveshaft the right length and adequate slip on the driveshaft is needed. I'm just saying that getting good suspension travel up front (on leaves) requires more than a single trick to make the front driveline work.

All good info, but he’s been running this setup for a long time. Just the victim of saggy rubber, haha!
 
While it's sometimes considered hack, I'll mention that the 1" front driveshaft spacers help a lot with crossmember clearance. Obviously all the mounts need to be good, driveshaft the right length and adequate slip on the driveshaft is needed. I'm just saying that getting good suspension travel up front (on leaves) requires more than a single trick to make the front driveline work.

One problem with the 1" front drive shaft spacers is they do not work with a deep sump transmission pan. My 1" front drive shaft spacer barley cleared the stock trans pan, but I had to remove my 1" front drive shaft spacer when I installed a B&M deep sump trans pan because the spacer lay up right against it.
 
One problem with the 1" front drive shaft spacers is they do not work with a deep sump transmission pan. The spacer barley cleared the stock trans pan, but I had to remove my 1" front drive shaft spacer when I installed a B&M deep sump trans pan because the spacer lay up right against it.
You have a 4l80 though right? I had a 1” spacer on mine for a bit, and I know it cleared my 700r4.
 
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