Yep, just did all new seals and a locker to my D60.
Putting a Detroit in requires a new carrier and is a full setup, everything must be reset. I was planning on doing a Detroit too. However, I talked to person after person out here who run Lock-Rites in D60s with big tires and have no trouble. Even after breaking multiple shafts and joints, the Lock-Rites live on. From what I'm hearing, in a D60, the LRs outlive the DLs. I do know one thing, the D60 LR is HUGE compared to the 12B, 10B, and D44 versions. So, I went with the LR. Just a couple of hours to do it, and it costs several hundred dollars less than the DL. Basically, it's even easier to do the LR in a D60 as opposed to the DL in a C14, and the mechanism seems equivalent. Your using a big honking locking unit inside a big honking factory carrier which is strong enough not to need upgrading. We'll see...
There are no outer seals, only inner. The carrier must be removed to get to them, and they are a bit of a PIA to get out without the special puller, but it can be done. Don’t worry about shims when you remove the carrier, they are behind the bearings and you can’t get the mixed up. The pinion seal is easy enough to do too. However, to do it by the book, you’ll need an inch-pound torque wrench to set the preload. I just winged it on mine. Is it good enough? Beats me but on a trail rig I figured what the heck. Also, no crush sleeves to worry with.
As for the axles. If you have the necked down (pre-84?) inners, that is one place you can upgrade for reasonable $$ and have spares left over. CTM makes the knuckle joints but they are $$$. 35 spline outers (from select D70s) are common upgrades as well, but you’ll need the 35 spine Warn hubs. Seems like I saw a post where someone else is making 35 spine hubs but don’t recall for sure.
Got specific questions about the D60, give me a PM. I’ve been completely through mine now from one end to the other. Only thing I haven’t done is a gear setup…
