On a mud truck, it's mainly if you have drums. One trip out and they pack full and are useless and seize up. Disc's are the answer here.
Xwhatever on the correct master and propvalve/rear brakes.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Front dana 60 3/4 ton brake conversion
- Thread starter RECKLESS_TRENT
- Start date
On a mud truck, it's mainly if you have drums. One trip out and they pack full and are useless and seize up. Disc's are the answer here.
Xwhatever on the correct master and propvalve/rear brakes.
I have actually seen it as a big thing to ditch all rear brakes on them. If you ditch calipers, brackets, and rotors I guess you could save like 50 lbs I guess 
beags86
Eastbound and Down
If I was going to use two brakes instead of four I sure in hell wouldn't be downsizing.
Are there any Dana 60 brake upgrades out there?
Are there any Dana 60 brake upgrades out there?
Screw that put rotors on the rear if you don't want drums.
Edit: is this Leslie or her BF? No disrespect intended at all either way but it may help clarify things a bit quicker. Just a thought. Noticed the FB account. That's all.
Edit: is this Leslie or her BF? No disrespect intended at all either way but it may help clarify things a bit quicker. Just a thought. Noticed the FB account. That's all.
Last edited:
RECKLESS_TRENT
RECKLESS Photography
This is Leslie. My bf just has ideas and askes me to ask them or make a post or something. I get most of my info from him.
Got rid of the rear brakes because they was drum and didnt work so ditched them to save weight(actually ditched about 100lbs) and had plans to do rear disc brakes soon after and have been putting it off for yrs and is now used to not having them. Putting discs on the rear is still the plan but waiting until the axles go under the k5 to do it.
We understand what everyone means about going to smaller brakes but we are not wanting to do this just for stopping power, wanting to save weight, make easier to work on, ect.
And as it is with the brakes like they are I have a hard time stopping it just because there is no power brakes and Im only like 100lbs but he can lock the tires up and stop the truck if he has to. He dont have any problems stopping the truck.
Got rid of the rear brakes because they was drum and didnt work so ditched them to save weight(actually ditched about 100lbs) and had plans to do rear disc brakes soon after and have been putting it off for yrs and is now used to not having them. Putting discs on the rear is still the plan but waiting until the axles go under the k5 to do it.
We understand what everyone means about going to smaller brakes but we are not wanting to do this just for stopping power, wanting to save weight, make easier to work on, ect.
And as it is with the brakes like they are I have a hard time stopping it just because there is no power brakes and Im only like 100lbs but he can lock the tires up and stop the truck if he has to. He dont have any problems stopping the truck.
OK, its starting to make sense now. If your setup is that weight particular, you might not want to add a booster.
But, a vacuum booster does not weight all that much, and unless its a diesel or has a really wild cam on a gasser, its easy to tap into a vacuum source.
Its possible to get decent braking without boost by playing around with master cylinders. Trucks stopped for years before boosters.
However, most of those braking systems were drums, and drums are self actuating, so they do not need as much line pressure as disks.
At this point, its time to play the girl friend card, and tell him if he wants you to hang around and drive that truck, he will add a brake booster........
Also, remember, adding the booster will increase the line pressures. Before taking it on the road or the trail after adding the booster, do a couple of really hard stops heading in a safe direction.
If there are any weak points in the system that might fail under the higher pressure, you want them to fail when you are ready.
Not when heading towards something bad.
But, a vacuum booster does not weight all that much, and unless its a diesel or has a really wild cam on a gasser, its easy to tap into a vacuum source.
Its possible to get decent braking without boost by playing around with master cylinders. Trucks stopped for years before boosters.
However, most of those braking systems were drums, and drums are self actuating, so they do not need as much line pressure as disks.
At this point, its time to play the girl friend card, and tell him if he wants you to hang around and drive that truck, he will add a brake booster........
Also, remember, adding the booster will increase the line pressures. Before taking it on the road or the trail after adding the booster, do a couple of really hard stops heading in a safe direction.
If there are any weak points in the system that might fail under the higher pressure, you want them to fail when you are ready.
Not when heading towards something bad.
Fix the booster and the rear brakes.
Then think about the front brakes.
Martin
Then think about the front brakes.
Martin
I converted my front 60 to use 3/4 ton brakes and gained better braking and 42 pounds less.
My buddy bought the kit to convert his over, truck hasn't left the shop yet though.
I run k20 mc/hydraboost/d60/disco'd 14 out back, it could use a prop valve. But it'll put your face in the dash if you want it to
I run k20 mc/hydraboost/d60/disco'd 14 out back, it could use a prop valve. But it'll put your face in the dash if you want it to
RECKLESS_TRENT
RECKLESS Photography
Im guessing that you like it and glad that you did it???
a master applys fluid to rear system first and be it a small amount for the little wheel cylinders STOCK .
with your mixed up system of both tied to front only and both feed the same line its not doing you any good for the most part .
the reason it worked before is the smaller fluid volume requirement of the smaller calipers .
if you still wana keep this maybe try bleading the master and then plug off the rear port with special double 45* plug for this use . then blead the front line to the front only and retry .
reason for this is the rear once active then pushes the front pistion . this is a simple way to understand it for the laymen person not use to brakes .
this is why when you drive a regular vehicle and pop a rear line the brakes still work just all the way at the bottom of the pedal travel .
with your mixed up system of both tied to front only and both feed the same line its not doing you any good for the most part .
the reason it worked before is the smaller fluid volume requirement of the smaller calipers .
if you still wana keep this maybe try bleading the master and then plug off the rear port with special double 45* plug for this use . then blead the front line to the front only and retry .
reason for this is the rear once active then pushes the front pistion . this is a simple way to understand it for the laymen person not use to brakes .
this is why when you drive a regular vehicle and pop a rear line the brakes still work just all the way at the bottom of the pedal travel .
Yes, but I am running a non boosted manual master cylinder setup.
I was a really hoping you would post up
I think the plus of the 3/4 ton stuff is that you ditch all the goofy caliper brackets that require the locking spring things. Just go to a simple double caliper bolt setup. Brett's stock front 60 brakes suck in the buggy, but his rear brakes rock. (70s front caliper setup). And he is running the same brake pedal setup as you.
plus once I had ground my 60 calipers to clear 15s there wasn't much holding that spring deal in and would constantly loose them until I just started tacking the on
RECKLESS_TRENT
RECKLESS Photography
When we went to replace a hub bearing the other day we noticed one of them spring clips was gone. First time we ever had that problem.
I run 10 bolt brakes up front on my D60 as well.
Solved all kinds of brake proportioning issues I was having. They stop 37s dead in their tracks no problem.
Solved all kinds of brake proportioning issues I was having. They stop 37s dead in their tracks no problem.
