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front diff question

B

BigBoy truck

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i was wondering if there are any cons to putting a detorit true trak (sp) in my front diff ihave manuel locking hubs so i figured the only time the locker wuld be engaged is when the hubs are locked so has any one have any experiance with this they can share
 
I have heard that running the True Trac's will allow you to steer the truck while it's engaged.


I'm not picking my nose...I'm just pointing at my brain!!
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<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/thatK30guy>The K30 Collection</a>
 
what do u mean steer the truck????
explane please
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by BigBoy truck on 11/14/01 09:12 PM.</FONT></P>
 
Let's say you have a Detroit Locker in the front axle.

When the hubs are engaged and the t-case lever is in Hi or Lo lock, you will have difficulty steering the truck because the way the locker works, it will want to push the truck straight instead of turn when you have the wheels cranked.

Lack of turning ability is due to excessive gas on the pedal and running a strong and effective locker, like the DL.

But with the True Trac, there is something about them that allows the front axle to be able to steer.


I'm not picking my nose...I'm just pointing at my brain!!
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<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/thatK30guy>The K30 Collection</a>
 
Matter of fact, I wish they made one for the D60's.
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I have been thinking of rebuilding some axles I have laying around and installing all new gears, lockers, shafts, etc. etc.

I was planning on the True Trac for the front and Detroit Locker on the rear. I may still do it one day. And these are for the 10B front and 14FF rear.
wink.gif



I'm not picking my nose...I'm just pointing at my brain!!
crazy.gif


<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/thatK30guy>The K30 Collection</a>
 
ok so if i get one i will probly not have any trouble with it??? i dont know a whole lot about lockers
 
I cannot tell you if you will have trouble with it or not.

I simply stated in my first post that I have "heard" that the True Trac will allow for better steering.

I have also read this in my magazines, too.

Why not post this thread in the "ORD forum" and ask Stephen what he thinks?


I'm not picking my nose...I'm just pointing at my brain!!
crazy.gif


<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/thatK30guy>The K30 Collection</a>
 
I have a true trac in the front on one of my trucks and it works great as long as both wheels are on the ground if you lift a wheel it acts like a open diff and sends all the power to the wheel thats off the ground which sucks.Locked it steers fine but takes a little more room to turn in.As long as the hubs are unlocked you wont know its there.

<font color=red>A BIG HAMMER CAN FIX ANYTHING.... </font color=red>
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The tru trac is basically a posi or limited slip type unit, thus the ability to steer and not all that good w/ a wheel off the ground. Best bet might be to go the eaton unit and replace the spring w/ a stiffer one that will fare better w/ a wheel of the ground. Or else bust out the Mastercard and go ARB.

-Mikey
1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>
 
I have seen the True Trac to be an 'all-gear' unit. I could be wrong. Will check into it later.
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I'm not picking my nose...I'm just pointing at my brain!!
crazy.gif


<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/thatK30guy>The K30 Collection</a>
 
I have a lock right in the front of mine. Yes it will push in some instances. In the slick you sometimes have to unlock a hub to get it to turn.
What really may my steering heavy even on the street is the Detroit in the rear. I can chage the direction of the truck in a turn on the street by getting on the gas. Goes like all hell on the trail. WOW it's got amazing traction.

Women dig dents and flat paint!
coloradok5.com/gallery/Grim
75 Jimmy, Dollar
Grim-Reaper
 
Like Grim said, just unlock a hub if it don't want to turn (may not be much fun in 2' of mud
laugh.gif
). In dry areas (I live in the desert) you can (usually) just get out and unlock the inside hub to make the turn. It's that inside (relative to the turn) front wheel pulling that will "pull" you straight when you want to turn. Or, twin-stick it (if you can) and, if you don't really need the front pulling, disengage the front to make the turn.

Having the front locked up is well worth all the hassle when you are airing out a front tire in some really nasty place. On the other hand, you do have to be carefull because a front locker can spit out knuckle joints faster than you can say @%$#% if you don't have the hardware to take the abuse (too big tires, too much stupid pedal, tight turns).

Russ

85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
 
I agree with a lot of stuff said here so far. If you are concerned about traction when you are lifting a tire, a limited slip or posi unit isn't really worth much.

I have a full Detroit locker in my front 10-bolt. With that, you just have to wheel smart. Lots of power and sharp turning in 4WD will break something. So, don't do it. I have seen limited turning ability with mine, but not too bad. I have had to three- or five-point a few tight turns on the trails sometimes, but I'd give that up for the added convenience of full lock.

I can go damn near anywhere without having to power through with momentum. The constant driveability allows me to slowly and methodically get through an obstacle without breaking anything. I am glad I went the extra $$ for the full locker and have never looked back.

Brian
Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
 
I'd say it depends on your application..I'd think rock climbing and mud bogging would be excellent applications for a front locker.

I had contemplated it, but decided not to,with the whole "steering in slop" issue.

Almost lost my truck hunting, and had I a locked front diff, I very well may have. Off camber slope angling towards a canyon, snow, and gov-lock rear...I was lucky the tires bit in before the rear reached the edge. Ended up shoveling snow down to gravel before attempting to move the truck any further. The front diff NOT being locked is what I attribute staying on the road to, not down the hill 1000 feet or so.

As soon as the ass end hit the off camber patch the front end had just cleared, the rear end started to swing out, while the front end stayed planted. All forward movement stopped, but as the rear slid, the front ended up facing more the uphill slope than forward.

As I've seen it said before, the one wheel not spinning acts as an anchor of sorts. With the semi wet, maybe 6" of snow I was in, the tires spinning were getting NO grip. There was absolutely no tread pattern where my tires had gone before, except the side lugs, which were likely what got me that far along in the first place. I can't blame the tires (BFG AT KO's) as no matter what tire I would have had, I don't believe the situation would have been different. Flooring it with more aggressive tires may have dug down, but with 6" between me and the bottom, I didn't really want to test that theory out with the AT's : )

Dorian
My tech/links page: &lt;a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html&gt;www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html&lt;/a&gt;
Why insist on counting when the ring gear has the tooth counts stamped in?<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by dyeager535 on 11/16/01 12:46 PM.</FONT></P>
 
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