Hello All, MudMaxK5 here. I have been a member for a couple of years, but this is my first post. I'm having some trouble with my K5. I rebuilt the front 10 bolt recently, along with a list of other things. I just got my rig back on the road and I'm having some noise/shimmy/vibration kind of thing happening on deceleration. And its hard to pinpoint, cuz I worked on so many things at the same time. I rebuilt the engine, converted from factory TBI, to Holley Stealth TBI, headers, exhaust, 6 inch lift, rebuilt both axles. If I had done one of those things, and then heard this noise, I might have a better idea of where to look. I think I know what it is, but was hoping that someone may have had experience with this, and be able to offer some advice. When I rebuilt the front end, I went to 5:13 gears, and a lunch box locker up front, Redline Shockproof gear oil. I think it might be pinion shim clearance. But I dont know what that sounds or looks like. Any ideas?
CK5
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Front Differential Making Noise
- Thread starter MudMaxK5
- Start date
I would be surprised if it’s not related to the lift and driveshaft angles. Pull the front drive line out and drive it, see if it does it. Then try locking the Huns with out the driveline and repeat. That will help you test to isolate
It's not full time four wheel drive, so the axle doesn't spin until its engaged. And I still have the factory auto lock hubs. I took them apart, cleaned and replaced any parts that needed replacing, coated it with oil, or tranny fluid, I cant remember which, and put it all back together.
You ever hear a bearing, or bushing that's dry, and it has a weird shimmy, or vibration. And as soon as you squirt a little oil, or some kind of liquid on it, it clears up and runs smooth until it drys up again. That's kinda what this sounds like. And it's only on deceleration. As soon as I give it a little gas, it stops.
Rear drive shaft angle possiblity. When you gas the pinion angle goes noses up
It’s extremely easy to miss judge where a noise is coming from while driving a vehicle so don’t ignore exploring all options of determining the cause just because ya’ might have convinced yourself of the area.
Just as three guys earlier suggested that it very well could be REAR driveshaft related - this is a very common condition when the problem shows itself only on letting off the throttle and coasting.
Just a guess - your drivetrain is a 465-TH700R4/208-241 K5 and you did not change to a rear CV-joint when you lifted it with the six inch kit ?
If this is the case your pinion angle is turning up when power is applied but not when the throttle is let off or at a minimum and the joint angles are raising hell - also if your driveshaft was not lengthened the slip yoke is dangerously close to sliding out/off the splines and is wobbling when this happens.
You can put your mind at rest of it being the front end by removing the front shaft and therefore eliminating any possibility of it causing any issues.
These guys are giving you very good and wise advice from years and years of specific square truck knowledge and experience - take a moment to consider it. Good luck in finding this issue.
Good point, and thank you for your advice, and I am taking everyones advice to heart, I was just thinking out loud. I removed the front shaft today, and tried it out and could not hear, or feel anything. But it doesnt do it all the time. So I am going to drive it the rest of the week, and see what happens. It would be great if this fixes it. As for the rear shaft, it seems to be fine. No extreme angle at the diff, and it has a Double Cardan joint at the tranny. The front shaft is a different story, I can actually see the splines at the diff. But since I am not ready to do any four wheeling, and the front shaft doesnt spin until engaged, I figured I had a little time before having a drive shaft built for the front. I may have to expedite getting the shaft built for the front. I want to thank all of you guys for chiming in. Every little bit helps. I'll keep you guys posted, and let you know if this fixes the issue.
double cardan on the rear, ideal is to have rear pinion pointed at the t case out put flange/yoke. you can still get pinion movement that can result in a slight vibration.
not a fan of the 80's auto locking hubs, but must admit I don't know much about them, had 1 bad wheeling experience with them not engaging on a truck out with us.
Never know if the hubs are lock or not. Might have had 1 or both lock and turning front drive shaft making noise in the t case, what t case do you have ?
not a fan of the 80's auto locking hubs, but must admit I don't know much about them, had 1 bad wheeling experience with them not engaging on a truck out with us.
Never know if the hubs are lock or not. Might have had 1 or both lock and turning front drive shaft making noise in the t case, what t case do you have ?
That’s great that ya’ gotta CV-joint on the rear shaft ! Just as Wes stated the rear pinion should be almost pointing at the shaft on such a short wheelbase and short shaft dimension to avoid chatter on throttle let up.
Problem might be with the auto hubs staying engaged and spinning the front shaft - they are known for not engaging and no disengagement. Manual locking hubs are highly recommended over the auto locking ones. The autos are convenient but not reliable in the long term.
Problem might be with the auto hubs staying engaged and spinning the front shaft - they are known for not engaging and no disengagement. Manual locking hubs are highly recommended over the auto locking ones. The autos are convenient but not reliable in the long term.
