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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by uberbeans, Aug 25, 2006.
Do people modify the front of their drive-shaft to run 1350 u-joints? Any advice? How is it done?
On the axle side or the T-case side?
I guess I'm not sure which to do. Would you run a "combo" ujoint or change the slip yoke or what? With my new 37's I think I might need to look into this.
If you have a 10 bolt front axle then you should snap the axle ujoints long before you snap the driveshaft ujoints assuming the driveshaft ujoints are in good shape.
I run 37" tires on my truck with a stock driveshaft up front. I wheel my truck pretty hard in the rocks and it has held up fine for over 2 years.
I know guys breaking D60 30 spline stubs with stock 1310 size ujoints in there driveshafts.
Ok, lets play "what-if". (I know that the 10 is weak, I'm just not going to get the D60 until I run more rocks, not much of that in Florida) What if I got Chrome-moly shafts with CTM's and used the stock front drive shaft. I'm having made a new rear drive shaft with thicker tubing and converted up to 1350's. Do you think that the axles would still be the weak link or the drive shaft?
Once you go to chromo axles and ujoints you will be gambling on what will break next. It could be anything at that point. Hubs, driveshafts, R&P, locker, ...
Therobzilla has Superior Chromo's and CTMs in his D44 (equivalent to 10 bolt) and he has broken a R&P, Locker, & hubs. He has a beefed driveshaft though.
I would be willing to bet though that even with chromo's and CTM's the driveshaft won't break if it is in good shape. My buddy Matt (az-k5) runs 40" MTR's on his D60 front. His driveshaft is a stock GM driveshaft with a ground out CV joint and stock size ujoints. He has blown 1 D60 stub, bent 1 D60 stub, and broke 3 D60 hubs. FWP has broken 2 D60 stubs, and wallowed out a set of 35 spline Spicer D60 axleshafts. He did that with a stock 1310 ujoint at the pinion. He ran 38" SX's for years and now 42" Swampers.
P.S. This is all with the assumption that your ujoints don't bind front lift height. Matt (az-k5) has ground the stops on his CV joints to make them flex farther and not bind. If you bind a driveshaft it won't matter if it is 1310 or 1350 it is going to snap.
DAMN! I would have thought that the 1310 u-joint was the weak link in that set-up. I guess the front shaft is really strong right from the factory! I would prefer to replace the drive shaft stuff as opposed to the others on the trail. I'm running (or will be when it is completed) a 10 bolt with 4:56's/37" IROKS and a Lock-right. I was thinking of upgrading the shafts while I had it apart, what do you think I should do?
I only have 6"of lift.
I personally run 4.56's and 37's on my 10 bolt front. If you are a smart driver and keep your foot out of the pedal stocks shafts can last awhile. I rockcrawl with good spotters and a finesse driving style and I have not broken a stock axleshaft yet. I have wallowed the ears out of 1 shortside inner and outer shaft butn not snapped one. My steering is limited a little though because of the way I did crossover. I dont' get full lock to lock which helps keep some stress off the ujoints in the front axleshafts.
I would run the stock axleshafts for awhile and see if spending alot of money on Chromo's is a good investment or not. If breakage happens with stock stuff or larger tires are in the future then I would start looking around for a D60.
If you think about the driveshaft vs. axleshafts though the axle ujoints are getting 4.56x more torque then the driveshaft ujoints. The R&P multiply the torque after the driveshaft so the axle ujoints get the multiplied torque and the driveshaft ujoint don't.
With 6" of lift you need to check to make sure the driveshaft is still long enough when flexed out and also when the passenger side front tire is drooped down that the CV joint isn't binding.
Bind = BOOM
Thanks for the info! I think I will stay stock in the front and see what happens. Just for conversations sake how strong in comparison is the chrome-moly 10 versus a stock D-60? I love bench racing!
Axleshaft wise a chromo 10 bolt is as strong as stock D60 shafts. The problem lies in the fact that the R&P's and lockers aren't as strong for the 10 bolt. The 10 bolt R&P is only 8.5" where a D60 is 9.5". Lockers and carriers for a D60 are also bigger and stronger then 10 bolt locker or carrier. D60 hubs are probably a little stronger then good 10 bolt hubs but not by much.
Are the warn hubs good for the 10?
I run Warn Premiums on my truck. I have been very happy with them as have alot of guys I wheel with. I personally think they are about as good as it gets for 10 bolt hubs.
60's have a 9.75" ring gear. Everything about a 60 is way stronger than a 10 bolt. Also, 1.5" 35 spline outers are a bolt on for a 60, whereas with the 10 bolt you are stuck with the small outers, chromoly or not.
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