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front drive shaft questions

sandypants

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DIRVE SHAFT TIME:waytogo:
ok so my blazer is an 89 with sm465, 35" tires, dana 44, 10 ish of lift... stock np241.
soon will upgrade to dana 60, and 40" tires next year when i come home.


my question is, what should i do for my front drive shaft, i do drive it on the street, not daily but often, and can see highway, but not too often usually to go find a muddin spot or to go camping...

length is 37 3/8 inch in front of shaft. what is the recomended way to go and what do i do about caster if i need to use shims to rotate the axel?

sorry just new to shafts... btw lookin at tom woods shafts but not set on it. thanx guys
 
DIRVE SHAFT TIME:waytogo:
ok so my blazer is an 89 with sm465, 35" tires, dana 44, 10 ish of lift... stock np241.
soon will upgrade to dana 60, and 40" tires next year when i come home.


my question is, what should i do for my front drive shaft, i do drive it on the street, not daily but often, and can see highway, but not too often usually to go find a muddin spot or to go camping...

length is 37 3/8 inch in front of shaft. what is the recomended way to go and what do i do about caster if i need to use shims to rotate the axel?

sorry just new to shafts... btw lookin at tom woods shafts but not set on it. thanx guys


i just put a bigger ujoint in:dunno:
 
Yeah, lets get this straight. Do you NOT have a front driveshaft now?

Or are you wondering what to do with your shaft when you switch to a D60?
 
Sorry i just get to thinking and typin... you know how that goes.. :dunno:

but i DO NOT HAVE a drive shaft right now. after moving my front axle forward it is too long for that wimpy stock one.

so i have 10 lift, np241 and D44, i need a proper drive shaft. Woods drive shaft recomended add shimes to rotate pinion angle, then cut off steering knuckles and reweld them on for proper caster angle.... so for now should i do this? or is there other/better ways.... just want to know what you all do:waytogo:
 
You don't need to do all the knuckle turning stuff. You can, then you could get away with a cheaper drive shaft and no shims, but cutting and turning a knuckle is a fairly involved and expensive job. Unless you've got experience with sorta thing, you'd have to pay a shop to do it right. Waste of time and money on a 10b/d44. My truck is lifted somewhere between 8-10" so I bought a 42* CV shaft from High Angle Driveline-

Next to the stocker for comparison.
IMG_20110517_185208.jpg

IMG_20110517_185420-1.jpg

IMG_20110517_185407.jpg


Expensive at $800-1000, but it's realistically the cheapest way to do a drive shaft right, on a truck lifted that high.
 
removing the inner "C" was "recommended"? Wow

At 10" of lift, this would be an AWESOME mod, but very very difficult as the inner Cs are pressed and welded. Imagine two homeless dudes fighting over a slice of pizza and trying to get it for yourself, that's how hard it is to get them to separate from the axle tubes. You will be working very hard. :)
 
You don't need to do all the knuckle turning stuff. You can, then you could get away with a cheaper drive shaft and no shims, but cutting and turning a knuckle is a fairly involved and expensive job. Unless you've got experience with sorta thing, you'd have to pay a shop to do it right. Waste of time and money on a 10b/d44. My truck is lifted somewhere between 8-10" so I bought a 42* CV shaft from High Angle Driveline-


Expensive at $800-1000, but it's realistically the cheapest way to do a drive shaft right, on a truck lifted that high.

Now that is what i am looking for! i agree about NOT doing all that work to something like a 44 especially when i just want to replace it in a year or two!!
found my angles today with the angle finder, the
dana 44 is -1,
tcase sittin at 9, at both ends
the 14bff sittin at 13

i think i will just do what you did
 
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