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Front Drive Shaft

pomai

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1988 K-5 Blazer, front drive shaft, differential side, Dust Cap Kit Part number please?

Thank you,
Ed
 
I don't really understand what you are asking about. Could you explain more?
 
That explains it perfectly for me. However I don't have any part number for you as I would have to go to a driveline shop myself.
I would guess that you need to try and measure the outer diameter and find the threads per inch.
 
Wow, my guess at what the first post meant was not even close. Glad I didn't reply.
Second post cleared it right up.
I think you will find what you need here, but you will need to do some measuring. Unless you are the original owner of the vehicle, don't depend on what is supposed to be on there.
Things get modified all the time.
Anyway, most likely this will get you what you need.
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c565_slip_yoke_dust_caps_and_seals.html
 
I guess I always ran nekkid. I dont think any of my squares ever had a dust cap on the front driveshaft. Never had any issues.
 
I guess I always ran nekkid. I dont think any of my squares ever had a dust cap on the front driveshaft. Never had any issues.
A seal there helps keep the grease in and the mud and dirt out. Water, mud sand and whatever will decrease the life of the slip joint over time. At least I from what I have seen.
 
Those "caps" are worthless IMO.

With them on the front shafts wear out, even with regular lubing. They still allow dust in, and once the dust gets mixed into the grease, it abrades the splines. They could never work well since they are not working on a smooth surface. If you look at some of the shock boots available, those can be used. I'm using one on the rear shaft as well. Just zip tie them in place, trim to length before, if you like. Front may be a 100% solution, the rear is likely to be too big in diameter, but the boots are fairly rigid, so you can zip tie to the narrow end and let the "open" end rest (in tension) against the larger tube cap.

The front shaft I used off a 1990 or 1991 one ton square body had a boot on it that appeared to be factory, but I wasn't able to find a replacement anywhere.
 
Those "caps" are worthless IMO.

With them on the front shafts wear out, even with regular lubing. They still allow dust in, and once the dust gets mixed into the grease, it abrades the splines. They could never work well since they are not working on a smooth surface. If you look at some of the shock boots available, those can be used. I'm using one on the rear shaft as well. Just zip tie them in place, trim to length before, if you like. Front may be a 100% solution, the rear is likely to be too big in diameter, but the boots are fairly rigid, so you can zip tie to the narrow end and let the "open" end .

Then the grease that you are using is horrible. Working on equipment and mixer trucks, I have seen the difference in grease quality.


Good idea with the shock boot! :waytogo:
 
HAD shafts come with a boot however the boot didn't last long in the rocks :dunno:
 
Then the grease that you are using is horrible. Working on equipment and mixer trucks, I have seen the difference in grease quality.

Eh, I talked with the local driveshaft guy, his comments were basically the same. Those seals don't retain the grease. They see probably a few hundreds of thousands of cycles on a drive, exposed to water and dirt, I don't think any grease stands a chance.

Maybe it's the water up here, but it's been nearly impossible forever up this way, to get front driveshafts that weren't worn out and sloppy due to the splines. I tested mine, and within a couple thousand miles it was dry. I have yet to disassemble it after running the shock boot, but I'll try to remember to pull it and check. Probably 2K on it since adding the shock boot.

The one ton shaft that had the boot on it was good to go from new until I stopped using it, only one I've (ever??) seen that had miles on it, that wasn't worn out.

Maybe there IS a better grease? Pretty sure last I used was Sta-Lube red (high temp disk wheel bearing).
 
I use Schaeffer's after testing it on the trucks and equipment at work. It's waterproof and the drivers hate it getting on the drum of the trucks. But with all of the water, sand, acid and concrete that gets ran around on the trucks, it does so much better than the Valvoline that was being used before. The lower loader bucket pins have proven it too.
I could go on about what I have found in my job for situations that used to be a problem, but I can't show anyone the proof or document it.
But I won't run without a seal on the slip if I can find one.
 
The driveshafts I've had apart that have that blue plastic coating on the slip yoke splines are always tight and in good shape--ones without it are usually loose & sloppy,and looked like they never got greased after leaving the factory..

I would lose no sleep over a lack of that grease seal in the sliding yoke--as long as you pump in fresh grease once in a while,any dirt will get pushed out..I've had several drive shafts that didn't even have that fine thread nut with the seal on the slip yoke and didn't have any issues with the splines wearing out..
 
The driveshafts I've had apart that have that blue plastic coating on the slip yoke splines are always tight and in good shape--ones without it are usually loose & sloppy,and looked like they never got greased after leaving the factory..

I would lose no sleep over a lack of that grease seal in the sliding yoke--as long as you pump in fresh grease once in a while,any dirt will get pushed out..I've had several drive shafts that didn't even have that fine thread nut with the seal on the slip yoke and didn't have any issues with the splines wearing out..
I rarely see that blue coating intact, most peel off.
I agree the quality of the grease is the biggest factor, it helps when you frequently grease to push dirt out, and the best thing to have is a boot on top of it all.
 

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