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Front driveshaft questions

85 Jimmy

Sheepdog
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I just finished swapping in 52's in the front along with a dana 60 with drive flanges and a lockrite. Since my original driveshaft is too short and I will need a long slip short for flex, will I need to bring whatever I weld together to a shop to be balanced since it has drive flanges and a locker?

Also, what are the advantages/disadvantages of these driveshaft setups? The type with the splined part on the transfer case side (like stock) that slips into the yoke and the type with the splined part on the yoke side that slides into the driveshaft?

forged.jpg


longspline26.jpg
 
i like having my cv shaft up front.since its so short it helps in crossed up situation where the driveshaft is flexed as well.never binds on me so far.
 
I still plan on running the cv, just wondering about the slip portion.
 
Tattons driveline does real nice work real cheap, i bought an over 11 inch splip shaft in 1350 that was ground for a steeper angle with a cv on one end for under 250 shipped. Its turned my 39s and my locked 60 just fine. I know its more to spend but until you buy what you need plus new joints and its even balanced....pictures a little misleading since it has a conversion joint on the axle end in the pic.

cid__0323001430a.jpg
 
Numbers on the shaft...lol...ask for curtis. Quality service and pretty fast shipping . He uses spicer joints and has the u bolt yokes in stock.
 
I just finished swapping in 52's in the front along with a dana 60 with drive flanges and a lockrite. Since my original driveshaft is too short and I will need a long slip short for flex, will I need to bring whatever I weld together to a shop to be balanced since it has drive flanges and a locker?

Also, what are the advantages/disadvantages of these driveshaft setups? The type with the splined part on the transfer case side (like stock) that slips into the yoke and the type with the splined part on the yoke side that slides into the driveshaft?

forged.jpg


longspline26.jpg

The bottom pic is the ONLY way to achieve a long slip driveshaft short of making your own square driveshaft.
 
The bottom pic is the ONLY way to achieve a long slip driveshaft short of making your own square driveshaft.

What Scott said is pretty much spot on. I built a bit over a years worth of drive shafts at HAD, so I think I'm qualified to give some input on this one. With 52" springs up front, all of the other types of slip WILL pull apart at anything beyond moderate articulation on the side with the t-case output. A CV will also pretty much be required. A modified and clearanced 1350cv will max out at about 32-34*. A 1410 yoke on the differential will help too.
 

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