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front driveshaft tube thickness, what to use

big83chevy4x4

big83chevy4x4

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after splicing the original with 1.75" .100 and twisting it, im gonna just go ahead and retube the entire thing with 2", but what thickness.

stock is 2" .120, im thinking about using .134 for better strength. i imagine i will need to have the yokes turned down for the .134 to fit over and if i do that i should go with thicker. how thick is too thick? can i just grind the yokes to fit the thicker tube? i know i can get the 2" .120 and .134 not sure about anything thicker.

i don't want to have a problem until i can afford a custom built shaft from HAD, as every problem costs to fix which takes away from the HAD fund
 
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after some searching i found a formula to calculate the torsional strength of certain size/thickness tube.

1.75" .100 is 779 ft lbs
2" .120 is 1210
2" .134 is 1322
2" .120 DOM is 2178

ill probably go with DOM tube instead of HREW if the price isn't outrageous

i calculated wrong the first time, i used tensile strength instead of yield strength :doah:
 
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use square tubing with 1/4" wall, strong as hell and you can have super long splines.
 
Are you twisting the shaft or are your crushing/denting them?? The higher torsion strength will work if you are twisting them but do very little if you are smacking/denting them. I think 2" x .188 HREW (or DOM if you can afford it) would be the best mix.
 
This is what happens when you dent a shaft and still hammer on it. The guy that retubed the rear for me thought I was crazy for wanting .120 wall tube. I ended up with .134 wall due to him not having any .120. Thicker tube will aid in damage due to hitting it on rocks, bigger diameter give you your torque strength. The front shaft probably had rock rash on it as well but that happened after that yoke let go and all I had was front wheel drive.
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I say if it is for a truck that see's decent offroading and you are paying to retube it anyway that you go ahead and do a .188 wall and get it done right the first time.

Harley
 
im retubing it my self

im off to the steel yard in a few minutes, ill keep your sugestions in mind. it all depends on price :thinking: still not sure exactly what im gonna get.
 
I've done 3 front shafts now by sleeving with 2" Schd 40 over the stock tubes. If it's not full time, the front is not usually critical for balance. And I ran the one in my truggy up to around 45+ with no problems that could be detected over the 42" TSLs (which are really not that bad either). Very strong and very cheap. Pretty simple really, the ID is just over 2" and I used pieces of welding wire as "shims" to keep it centered while I made 4 tacks, one on each side, then welded solid. I would think for most applications that would be fine till you can afford a HAD or other nice shaft...

I also built a welding jig to help out using 4 wheels bolted to a board. Each pair were in-line and almost touching, spaced about 16" apart. The shaft sets in the "V" between each pair and allows you to easily roll it in place for a smooth, even weld.
 
i can't put 2" pipe over it, but would probably be the easiest. the 2" tube is very close to the exhaust. it needs to be close in balance, i plow with this truck and run in 4wd when i have the plow attached. i also play in sand and mud where you need wheel speed to get threw. im thinking about throwing some sand or BBs in to help with the ballance.

anyway i ran out of money today (had to pay insurance), so i'll have to get it thursday.
 
d shaft info

i was at my local shop when he bilt my shafts and it is a press on fittment for the ends to the tube so if you change the thickness i would put the ends in a lathe and cut them down the amount of the thickness difference. when he changes parts he puts in a lath and cuts weld off at edge of tube and end pieces.
 
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