Running a CV @ the t-case end allows you to point the pinion @ the t-case. If you set up single u-joints, t-case output and diff pinion must be parallel. In other words, you have to run the pinion lower in order to use only single u-joints.
CK5
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R
RIPPEDK5
Guest
ooh.. mines in the stock location basically and i have crossmember clearance issues...i think im gunna try the theory of the CV's...Ive gotten the shafts for way cheap and if it dont work i attempt all of your theories
CVs eliminate vibration.
R
RIPPEDK5
Guest
Well the truck will still see daily driving in the winter, to and from work some times, and weekends wheeling..
This brings up another issue as to which is better for the application?
Its not an everyday driver, but its not just a wheeler
This brings up another issue as to which is better for the application?
Its not an everyday driver, but its not just a wheeler
Well you want 16" of lift, driven on the street while being cheap which is close to impossible.
Is the t-case full time or not?
Without a CV you will have vibes. With the CV you won't have enough angle unless you buy a high $$ driveshaft.
Is the t-case full time or not?
Without a CV you will have vibes. With the CV you won't have enough angle unless you buy a high $$ driveshaft.
I agree with Chris. The "cheap" option is to loose 10" of lift.
I would call Jess at High Angle Driveline. He's always willing to talk on the phone. It doesn't cost you anything to get his opinion and at least a quote on the best way to accomplish what you are doing. I'm curious if there's even an option for a drive shaft operating at 40° constantly.
Of course there is, its just expensive.
R
RIPPEDK5
Guest
This is the whole problem... I shouldnt have to pay more for a driveshaft than I paid for the truck!!!
you cant prove to me that a 5 inch x 5 inch peice of revolving steel is worth $500....You just cant..
There is an option...its $700 at driveshaft superstore......Im not paying that for 1 driveshaft and im not losing lift. and actually its probably more expensive to lose that much lift at this point.
Its an NP208.. its not full time is only part time..
im just irritated at the fact that people are money hungry for there stuff..
So im trying to build on the cheap...
the whole world's gone to h*ll
you cant prove to me that a 5 inch x 5 inch peice of revolving steel is worth $500....You just cant..
There is an option...its $700 at driveshaft superstore......Im not paying that for 1 driveshaft and im not losing lift. and actually its probably more expensive to lose that much lift at this point.
Its an NP208.. its not full time is only part time..
im just irritated at the fact that people are money hungry for there stuff..
So im trying to build on the cheap...
the whole world's gone to h*ll
R
RIPPEDK5
Guest
speaking of wanting to much for there stuff..
I was at thompson motor speedway swap meet..
I could have taken home 2 -10 bolts and 3 -dana 44's for free but some monkey wants $1000 for his dana 60...Is there something wrong with this picture?
Even a 14BFF..there giving them away..But not a DANA 60..
you might aswell wack off a leg, arm and my jewels for one of them....geez..
people these days
I was at thompson motor speedway swap meet..
I could have taken home 2 -10 bolts and 3 -dana 44's for free but some monkey wants $1000 for his dana 60...Is there something wrong with this picture?
Even a 14BFF..there giving them away..But not a DANA 60..
you might aswell wack off a leg, arm and my jewels for one of them....geez..
people these days
My guess is that doubling up those CVs back to back is gonna make your driveshaft wobble like mad. By the way, you didn't take the d44s of 10b home did you? Supply and demand: nobody else wants them either. Tell me again why that much lift is so important. Hey, why not just leave the front shaft out like most people with that much lift? Kinda sounds like you just want it to tip over.
I can appreciate that you like doing things yourself for cheaper. There are tons of us who feel the same way (none of my vehicles have ever been to a mechanic and I've built 90% of my truck from scratch).
The driveshaft part of your front driveshaft isn't too expensive. The high angle CV is. You can kid yourself all you want:
"you cant prove to me that a 5 inch x 5 inch peice of revolving steel is worth $500....You just cant.."
but the fact is that you live in a capitalistic society. There is competition in the driveshaft market and high angle cv's are expensive to make. Does your girlfriend/wife have any diamonds? Prove to me that they are worth anything
Nobody is price gouging anyone on driveshafts. I've never bought anything from any of the previously mentioned companies (I make my own shafts now) but I know they are priced fairly.
Since you don't have an NP203 (full time) t-case just ditch the CV altogether. You should be able to run the angle you need.
As for the axles, I got my FF14 bolt for free and had trouble selling my stock dana 44 for $20. I have sold several front dana 60's for more than $1K, seriously that is at least the going rate anymore.
The driveshaft part of your front driveshaft isn't too expensive. The high angle CV is. You can kid yourself all you want:
"you cant prove to me that a 5 inch x 5 inch peice of revolving steel is worth $500....You just cant.."
but the fact is that you live in a capitalistic society. There is competition in the driveshaft market and high angle cv's are expensive to make. Does your girlfriend/wife have any diamonds? Prove to me that they are worth anything
Nobody is price gouging anyone on driveshafts. I've never bought anything from any of the previously mentioned companies (I make my own shafts now) but I know they are priced fairly.
Since you don't have an NP203 (full time) t-case just ditch the CV altogether. You should be able to run the angle you need.
As for the axles, I got my FF14 bolt for free and had trouble selling my stock dana 44 for $20. I have sold several front dana 60's for more than $1K, seriously that is at least the going rate anymore.
R
RIPPEDK5
Guest
I doubt it will tip over.. A little top heavy but there isnt much to the truck anymore (no doors, bed, bumpers)...The other issue is that im far to forward to go in the reverse direction on the project...
All spring hangers have been moved/modified/ or changed; cant really pay to change the suspension again. Its a rolling check casher that I just want to use now and dont want to put loads more money into..
remember its been sitting in the same spot for about 3 yrs now with me working on it on the weekends.
maybe not every one is gouging; buyt my buddy (suppose to be my friend) told me to buy the "CV" and he'd lengthen and weld the shaft for an addictional $500... same guy charged me 5 bucks to put a 3 inch weld on my exhaust..not much of a friend...
So maybe if i put just a u-joint (maybe one of those extra angle offset joints) and lengthen the shaft It will have usefull 4wd?
(sorry for the useless blabber)
No I didnt take the axles home..no room
All spring hangers have been moved/modified/ or changed; cant really pay to change the suspension again. Its a rolling check casher that I just want to use now and dont want to put loads more money into..
remember its been sitting in the same spot for about 3 yrs now with me working on it on the weekends.
maybe not every one is gouging; buyt my buddy (suppose to be my friend) told me to buy the "CV" and he'd lengthen and weld the shaft for an addictional $500... same guy charged me 5 bucks to put a 3 inch weld on my exhaust..not much of a friend...
So maybe if i put just a u-joint (maybe one of those extra angle offset joints) and lengthen the shaft It will have usefull 4wd?
(sorry for the useless blabber)
No I didnt take the axles home..no room
TruckNutzDude
1/2 ton status
I have a suggestion:
buy a clocking ring for the 208 and clock it down to lessen the angle without losing lift. Clocking rings are relatively cheap. Then grind the CV "stops" and have the shaft lengthened somewhere else (should be able to have that done for about $100) This should keep your costs low and give you functional, budget friendly 4wd.
buy a clocking ring for the 208 and clock it down to lessen the angle without losing lift. Clocking rings are relatively cheap. Then grind the CV "stops" and have the shaft lengthened somewhere else (should be able to have that done for about $100) This should keep your costs low and give you functional, budget friendly 4wd.
R
RIPPEDK5
Guest
Where can I get on of these clocking rings for a NP 208..That means Id have to get a new crossmember?
TruckNutzDude
1/2 ton status
There are a few vendors here (in the vendors section) that sell the clocking rings. I believe you would have to modify the crossmember for the drop but alterations to that should still keep you within a reasonable budget.
ps you can purchase a decent Lincoln MIG welder at Home Depot for around $300 and not have to pay a "buddy" next time you need something small repaired.
ps you can purchase a decent Lincoln MIG welder at Home Depot for around $300 and not have to pay a "buddy" next time you need something small repaired.
R
RIPPEDK5
Guest
UPDATE: well driveshaft failure #1..... dual cv inaffective and under torque load the cv's shift ....dual cv's together--NOOOO!NEW PLAN: 1-CV with NP208 flange on both ends...attach to original driveshaft with single u-joint and welded on flange (totalling, flange/cv/flange/u-joint/shaft)..(3 total u-joints on the transfer case side)......attempt #2
TruckNutzDude
1/2 ton status
Buy a 1410 yoke for the t-case and front diff and shorten/lengthen a factory 2.5 ton rockwell driveshaft (has 1410 joints) that should allow you to lessen the angles and keep costs low.
You have way too much lift to cut corners on the front shaft.
Stop messing with the cv's man, they can't handle the angles you have.
Or use the suggestion I posted before this.
Or use a divorced t-case and a 2wd transmission.
You have way too much lift to cut corners on the front shaft.
Stop messing with the cv's man, they can't handle the angles you have.
Or use the suggestion I posted before this.
Or use a divorced t-case and a 2wd transmission.
R
RIPPEDK5
Guest
Im definetely not doing a divorce tranfer case and 2wd tranny.. I would have to re-do everything and thats insane.Why change things that came to me for free from the factory...add one more joint and I add 23 more degrees..and with all my attempts i havent even hit the $100 mark on spending...and if it works thats 1/7 the cost of a high angle money pit shaft..
