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Front driveshaft

BattleBornK5

BattleBornK5

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Ok I’ve looked and searched and haven’t really found what I’m looking for. I ordered a Tom woods driveshaft for the front. 1350 CV style. I must have messed up on my angles because it wants to bind up mid way through droop. Really didn’t want to go the BAFM rout but looks like I may have to. What are my fellow square body rock crawlers guys running for front drive shafts and do you have binding issues under full droop? Running limit straps? I didn’t think the angle was that bad. Roughly 4” lift but raised the trans/transfer case up 1.5” as well as clocked. I’ll try and get a measurement from center of the front output to the bottom of the frame. So tell me what you guys are running and any and all information you can on your set up. No pics with the shaft in but at ride height it’s at about 28 degrees total working angle. Shaft angle is 24. Sorry for the long winded post.

IMG_2306.jpeg
 
Are you set on running a CV? There's some other options such as offset u joints.

I run a BAMF.
 
1310 and 1410 ujoints and CV’s typically have greater operating angles that 1350.

I’m around 7” lift with a 4spd/Doubler that’s clocked up 2”, my front shaft has single 1410 joints at each end with no issues yet.

My rear driveshaft has a 1410 CV, I bought it from HAD but it’s a Neapco part that can be sourced by just about any driveline shop. Neapco # N924141HAG (1410 / 30 degree) CV.
 
skunked said:
Are you set on running a CV? There's some other options such as offset u joints.

I run a BAMF.
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Not dead set. Tom woods said this CV he built was good for 30 degrees. Do you do any kind of snow wheeling where your running 25 30mph for long periods of time with it? He made it seem as tho it wouldn’t handle that very well.
 
nvrenuf said:
1310 and 1410 ujoints and CV’s typically have greater operating angles that 1350.

I’m around 7” lift with a 4spd/Doubler that’s clocked up 2”, my front shaft has single 1410 joints at each end with no issues yet.

My rear driveshaft has a 1410 CV, I bought it from HAD but it’s a Neapco part that can be sourced by just about any driveline shop. Neapco # N924141HAG (1410 / 30 degree) CV.
Click to expand...
My rear shaft is perfect. Do you know how many degrees your transfer case output is facing up? If I remove the shims out the front I may be able to get away with going to a single joint with minimal vibration.
 
BattleBornK5 said:
Not dead set. Tom woods said this CV he built was good for 30 degrees. Do you do any kind of snow wheeling where your running 25 30mph for long periods of time with it? He made it seem as tho it wouldn’t handle that very well.
Click to expand...

If it's good for 30 degrees I would consider a limit strap. How much slip do you have? That's usually the bigger issue.....and yes I snow wheel and the BAMF CV handles the mph fine.
 
skunked said:
If it's good for 30 degrees I would consider a limit strap. How much slip do you have? That's usually the bigger issue.....and yes I snow wheel and the BAMF CV handles the mph fine.
Click to expand...
Plenty of slip, they put their long slip yoke on. I only get about 5 inches of vertical down travel from ride height before the CV binds up. I’m leaving about 4 inches on the table. I doubt articulation will be compromised but won’t really know tell I put it on the trail. If I limit strap it I will want to find a way to do it as close to the pinion as possible, Well running longer limit straps at the shocks for articulation so my brake lines don’t “try” to be the limit strap. I guess the best thing to do is just limit it and see how it is. If I don’t like it I guess order a BAMF.
 
BattleBornK5 said:
My rear shaft is perfect. Do you know how many degrees your transfer case output is facing up? If I remove the shims out the front I may be able to get away with going to a single joint with minimal vibration.
Click to expand...

I don’t know the angle right off but I’ll try to measure it in the next day or so. No shims on my front axle but I also don’t run it at any speed so no idea about vibration.
 
I’m thinking the clocking maybe what’s getting ya…..I’m at 4” lift and I’m running a factory front shaft with the stops ground off the CV end and it doesn’t bind anywhere
 
Chickntrk said:
I’m thinking the clocking maybe what’s getting ya…..I’m at 4” lift and I’m running a factory front shaft with the stops ground off the CV end and it doesn’t bind anywhere
Click to expand...
I think that’s what has mine all messed up also. May just bite the bullet and do a BAMF shaft. I’ll call Tom wood’s tomorrow and see about getting this thing shipped off and redone. Least then I can get everything I can out of the front. I think I’ll be building a high pinion in the near future that I can swap all my outers onto.
 
ANY t-case drop helps rear but KILL'S front angles . its better to rework rear angles than front as the front is shortest to begin with .

i did a blazer with 1tons and axle moved 1.5" forward with 4" springs and zero rate and nv4500/205 and no shaft problems . rear we did ford super duty front shaft mod and i burned in the spring perches at the angle needed . 75mph smooth ride and i had it up to 90+ with the 37" tires still smooth with owner in pass seat just blown away compared to his old ride . more info in this build thread near the end . M1009 build
 
sweetk30 said:
ANY t-case drop helps rear but KILL'S front angles . its better to rework rear angles than front as the front is shortest to begin with .

i did a blazer with 1tons and axle moved 1.5" forward with 4" springs and zero rate and nv4500/205 and no shaft problems . rear we did ford super duty front shaft mod and i burned in the spring perches at the angle needed . 75mph smooth ride and i had it up to 90+ with the 37" tires still smooth with owner in pass seat just blown away compared to his old ride . more info in this build thread near the end . M1009 build
Click to expand...
I didn’t do a transfer case drop. I actually raised mine and clocked it. I’m running a magnum box and a 205. Rear I set the pi on angle and am running a 1359 SD CV.
 
Bent77 said:
All these things are fixing symptoms

High Pinion is the way…
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Agree but if I do a HP it will probably be a Gearworks 10”. Right now I just want to get wheeling. I’ll build up a front axle as funds allow down the road and build it how I want.
 
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