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Front End Clunking, what is loose?

dhcomp

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Hey Guys

91 3/4 Ton burb 4x4.

212k on chassis/springs. New shocks.

Small bumps (read, any normal road) causes the front end to clunk. Like some mount is loose, or some bushing is toast. What normally causes this on these trucks?

I don't see any bushings that are totally trashed, but can't think of a good way to shake things to see what is loose. Whether the tires are on the ground, or not, the suspension is under enough tension that i can't really move things.

Uh. I know this is sounding stupid. Any ideas?
Would swaybar bushings cause this?
 
I have a 90 V2500 with the same kinda noise. Mine has newer 6" superlift springs and the truck itself has over 300k on it. I have tightened everything I can think of and it still has that odd clunk noise. I did have to tighten the steering box bolts prob 3 months ago for a clunk when turning left and right...took care of that but now this noise is here. Mine will do it when turning and going from front to back(like turning around on the trail or in a driveway) and when hitting small bumps at slow speeds on the trail or rough terrain of any sort. Hope this will help out with finding the problem...and maybe so info will come up to help me out with mine!
 
I'll check steering box bolts, although i just put on a brace 6months ago, and tightened them then.
 
Jack up the front of the truck and see if you can move either tire in/out or side/side. I'd put my money on bad balljoints.

It could be a bushing on the springs, shocks or swaybar. Go ahead and check all of those at the same time.
 
Will Do. I was thinking that was a possibility too. But figured it wouldn't steer as well as it does if that was the case.

When off the ground, there should be definite up/down movement if bj's are bad when i try and tilt the wheel, correct?
 
Yeah any noticable movement is a problem. Put the front axle on jackstands and grab the tire. Attempt to move it like chris said. If it moves, other than steering motion, take tire off and repeat. If it still moves, remove hub and repeat.
Good Luck
 
Sometimes.....i hate it when you guys are right:doah:

You know when you finally make a diagnosis, and then realize the 50 different symptoms that you were ignoring? Like the shaking under hard braking? Etc.?

Definitely ball joints. Like 1/4 -3/8" of tilt when i wiggle the wheel up and down . Guess you know what im doing next weekend.

Ordering the Spicer Premiums from Rock auto.

I'm going to look at old threads and figure out what tools i need. Thanks!
 
I know you said youd search, but tools off the top of my head: RENTAL TOOLS Ball joint press with 4wd adapter set, pickle fork, and I rented a spindle?? socket set from advance 'cause nobody local sells a 1 5/16" 1/2 drive socket. The 36 or 34 mm socket fit well. Personal tools I decided to buy the upper balljoint preload socket, it was $20 from O'reillys. Basic hand tools, spindle socket of course, air tools were handy, a torque wrench(which can rent from autozone).

Not to second guess you, but as your disassembling check like I posted earlier so that you know where the problem truly lays. If you have to remove the steering arm, you should use new 9/16" NF crimped lock nuts. The torque was 90 ft/lbs, kind of obscure to find(at least for the computer handicapped like me)
 
grab your shocks and pull side to side.. maybe your like me and forgot the spacer on the mount :doah:

Edit:

Just saw it was ball joints.. your in for some fun!

Off the top of my head..

Big focking hammer
some big sockets(I think the largest is 1 5/16", but don't quote me)
spindle nut socket - cheap one works for one or two times but if you plan on using it, spend the money on a snap on
torque wrench
ball joint spanner - for adjusting the sleeve
pickle fork
tub of wheel bearing grease, might as well pack your bearings anyways.

As far as pressing them in and out.. I use the HF press, have done so a lot and not had any issues. Some have though. If you get stubborn ball joints, I'd just take the knuckle down to a shop and have them press them in.

Now, I was told by a friend that the pickle fork isn't needed. Just smack the flat sides of the inner c with the sledge and it should break the ball joints free. Same goes for the tie rod. Smack the front of where the tie rod mounts on the knuckle, there is a flat spot.
 
Have 2 pickle forks already. Check out the local kragen, they have the spindle sockets. Just going to have to track down the spanner socket deal for teh adj. sleeves. yay.
 
Napa has it for around $20.

I have the Kragen socket.. used it a bunch of times, the teeth are starting to round off :eek1:
 
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