Front Half Cage Questions

[goathearder]

Hey Guys,
If all goes well, I'll be starting my cage this weekend. I have a really good idea of the layout I want from looking through all the pictures on here but there is one thing I can decide on so I am looking for advice:

Option 1:
2 main hoop to A-Pilar bars with a single, straight piece of tube at the top of the windshield connecting them and another piece at dash level connecting them

or

Option 2:

1 "Halo Bar" from the main hoop to the windshield header and back to the main hoop, 2 individual A-Pilar only bars connecting from the floor to the halo and a dash spreader.

Option 1 seems to be the most common but I just want to know which is going to be strongest. I'll have gussets at all the connections and everything so there might not be a difference but I just wanted some informed advice.

Thanks,
John

 

[ryoken]

option 1 is stronger imo, looks much better and is VASTLY more difficult.. at least if your going thru the dash... it's the way I did mine.... if I had to do it again, I'd go option 2.. each A-pillar tube took a whole day to do...

 

[blazinzuk]

Either or. The strength comes from the bracing you do. The top roof of the cage needs 2 bars that are triangulated.

If the rest of the steps are not taken to build the cage properly it can compromise strength a lot.

I think our trucks lend themselves better to the A pillar coming back to the B pillar and connecting with a straight bar at the top of the windshield and then another at the dash like option 1.

Kind of weird but I think the option 1 is easier than option 2.

Maybe cause I have done alot of Halo style cages

 

[K85 Octane]

I foresee option (1) giving you more head room also. I think you can work your sun visors into the mix better with option (1) also. Just picturing it myself.

 

[ryoken]

I think option 1 makes it easier to keep things tight to the sheetmetal over a halo...

 

[blazinzuk]

OH yes option 1 makes it way easier to keep tight to the sheetmetal.

I have bent halos that had 10+ bends in them. about half of them you would barely know they were there but nonetheless a halo is harder to get tight

 

[goathearder]

OH yes option 1 makes it way easier to keep tight to the sheetmetal.

I have bent halos that had 10+ bends in them. about half of them you would barely know they were there but nonetheless a halo is harder to get tight

Well, Option 1 it is then! That's the way I was leaning already so thanks for convincing me guys

And thanks to ryoken for making my life a lot harder, hahahahaha. I wasn't planning on going through the dash but I am now. I already made the metal portion of the dash removable so I could get it powdercoated so it probably won't be that much of a hassle to run the A-Pillar Bars though it. Damn that looks good!

 

[ryoken]

with the dash removable, it should be much, much easier....

 

[goathearder]

Do you have some pics of where you snaked the tube through on the drivers side? Do you still have good access to the fuse panel or did you move it somewhere else?

 

[ryoken]

the fuse panel shouldn't be an issue.. mine is now a circuit breaker panel in the glovebox anyway...

foot operated e-brake lever is another story.. mines in the center console now, but the stock one would have been an issue..

i'll go hunt for some pics...

 

[ryoken]

here's the only one I can find of where the ds foot mounts.. keep in mind, my floor is custom too.. the tube is about an inch from the side panel..

here's where it goes thru the dash up top...

here's a shot of the passenger side.... the hole is my overhead console wire chase..

 

[ryoken]

here's a somewhat better one of the ds..

 

[goathearder]

Nice, thats a better view for sure. Looks pretty doable except for the e-brake. I am also a bit concerned about the AC, are you running AC?

 

[ryoken]

nah, just my custom summit heater gig I did in the middle..

the top bar I ran, just under the dash, would be difficult fo sure with a factory AC...

 

[rdn2blazer]

One recommendation, DO NOT weld anything in till every tube is in it's place. It's easy to cut a couple tac welds to fit a tube in, but a fully welded tube is a bitch. I learned the hard way on one juntion. I have a good fix but would have perfered NOT to have to fix it.