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front hubs changeout?

C

crossy

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I admit it ! after 20 years of rebuilding, welding,replacing etc, etc. I still shy away from 4X4 related work. I just purchased an 86 K5 with stock 10 bolt rears that the Autohubs are clicking loudly in the front of and I know they are notorious for breaking and this truck has a history of problems with them. I need a recommendation for manual hubs and a link to a step by step installation, any help appreciated. thanx, DAVE
 
I dont have a link for you. But I can tell you go with a set of warn premiums as they are a great set. As for installation. There are only 4 pieces to the warns. The aluminum locking piece that goes in the hub, 2 snap rings, and the outer part that engages lock or disengages. It is so easy to install its not funny. You could do it in 10 minutes.
 
instilation should be explained in a haynes manual from your local autopars store such as autozone or murrys. Id go with regular warn hubs if you dont plan on hard core wheelin' but if your into hard core wheel'n (lots of mud, water, rock climbing, big tires) id pay the extra 40$ and get the premium warn hubs, they have a good service record and are a good buy. good luck /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif.
/forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
 
I just replaced mine. Let me know when you get yours and we'll walk through it, very easy stuff tho once you've been through it.

Marty-- /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
if you go to manual hubs you will also want to get the transfer case mod that disconnects the front drive on your transfer case.warn also sells this kit.id go for the warn premiums.well worth the 80 bucks.look better than the regular warns also in my opinion.
 
alrighty then!I went to my parts store today and asked for any type of WARN hub and he said that he stocks them. NOT the premiums but good ones for $59.then he says i need the bearing/hub adapters also at an additional $48. what gives?. I didn't get any of it .DAVE
 
to my knowlage all you need to do is rip the old parts out and put the new guts in, 10 bolt rotor and hub assemblys are the same for both manual and auto hubs.
 
i've got an 86 with ten bolts and i just did the warn premiums...i didn't need any kind of adapters. i'd say while your down there repack the bearings but the box o' hubs is all you need. go ahead and spend ten bucks on a set of snap ring pliers (make the job a whole lot easier).
 
Advance Auto Parts tried to sell me the same kit. You don't need it for yours. You only need it if you have an older blazer with the hubs held in by three screws. I picked up the hubs from the store shelf, and the guy just automatically brought me the spindle nut adapter and said "you'll need this". I said I didn't need this, and he said he'd had some one in there with another "Bronco" the other day who thought they didn't need them but had to come back. (He had seen my truck when I pulled up) I thought that was funny.A cashier who can't tell fords from chevys telling me what part I have to have. But anyway, If you got the set, the instructions are pretty easy to follow.
 
A friend of mine who has a 9 second street car runs the Advance Auto in town so he knows , but I understand FULLY what you are saying, Great advice, Thanx a bunch. Pooring rain here so it,s out of the question today.
 
Yeah, I think it all depends on who is working there. The NAPA and one of the Auto zones here are good. At a lot of the other places I just say "ring it up and I'll make it fit"
 
no special kit is needed to fit the hubs.just pull out the guts and replace with the new guts.as i mentioned before you should also get the transfer case disconnect kit so that you can run your truck in 2 wheel drive and disconnect the front driveshaft under "normal" driving conditions. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
well unless he's replace his 208 with a 203 than he doesn't need the kit cause his t-case is part-time already.
 
i thought that if it had the auto hubs it had a 203 with full time 4 wheel drive.never mind if im wrong.i thought that with those hubs the front was always locked in also?i always thought that is why someone would want to convert to manual hubs.if im wrong sorry.let me know.
 
chulisohombre, NP203s do not use an auto hub, they use a drive flange. The NP208 uses an auto hub. An '86 would have come w/ a 208, so no need to part time it.
 
nope...its mechancially spring and thrust driven (when it does actually work /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif)
 
The main reason for converting to manual hubs is dependability and strength. I have the exact same setup as him, and my auto hubs spent half their time not engaging when I wanted them to, and the other half of the time staying locked when I wanted them to release. They were quickly replaced with warns and I haven't had any trouble since. (except when I forget to lock them in and wonder why the he** I can't get up a hill)
 
Hi, Everybody has an opinion? But the Mile-Marker Hubs are Heads and Shoulders above the rest! Why? Because the materials they ara constructed out of require less lubrication, therefore less binding/hanging/sticking! in adverse conditions. Dont take my word for it, just go play with a set,acctuating the mechinisims with youre hands, you`ll see! Cost less to with catalog mail order. Good Luck /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif <font color="white"> </font color>
 
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