i just finished doing this
jack up the front, take off the tire, makes your life alot easier.
put the hub in the "locked" position (not really sure why, its what my manual told me to do)
undo the six bolts holding the outter part of the hub on. grab hold of the hub, wiggle and pull, it will pull out.
look for a small phillips head screw on the inner part of the hub, it will be holding the inner mesh gear in place. undo the screw, being careful not to let the gear, and the spring behind it, pop out and get lost, or hit you in the eye.
remove the mesh gear and spring and set aside
remove the snap ring from the tip of the spindle
remove the large metal "o ring" from the outside groove inside the tip of the rotor housing. i used a dental pick for this, it made it quite easy.
take a hold of the inner lock hub assembly, it should pull out rather easily at this point. there will be the cast aluminum housing, with gearing around the outside, and a smaller gearing inside the center. it looks like two parts, it is one.
behind that will be the four (or six) pin lock nut.
NOTE - if youre only concerned about why its not locking, you can stop here, if you want to remove everything, the rotor, the bearings, everything, keep reading.
undo the two allen bolts holding the brake caliper in place. either suspend it with a coat hanger or lay it on the front axle to keep tension off the brake hose.
youll need the spindle nut socket at this point, remove the lock nut, the spacer behind it, and the adjusting nut behind that.
take firm hold of the rotor, and pull it away from the spindle, the outter bearing may fall out, try to avoid this, the inner bearing will be held in place by the seal on the back of the rotor.
assembly is the same as reverse. except for torqing the nuts.
for the adjusting nut, first off, find the small pin sticking out of it, you want this facing OUT, away from the center of the truck. the smooth side should contact the bearing face. torque to 50 ftlbs while turning the rotor, then back off 1/2 turn, retorque to 35 ftlbs and back off 3/8 turn..... thats where my manual quit, but the rotor was loose, and had enough play to make me worry, so i tightened the nut down till the play went away, and then torqued it down a quarter turn to be safe.
at this point you want to install the spacer, note the holes drilled all the way around, the small pin sticking out of the adjusting nut should fit into one of these holes, if not, adjust the nut until it does.
now install the lock nut, my manual said to torque to 150 ftlbs, i torqued mine to about 110 or 120, because the tool i have started to slip and i didnt want to strip either it or the lock nut.
at this point, you just put everything back in the way it came out, pretty strait forward. i used a cardboard box to lay everything out in the order i removed it, and it kept them clean so that dirt, pollen, and leaves and whatnot didnt cover them sitting in my driveway. a shoebox would probly be perfect.
hope that helps.
