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Front leaf spring bolt question

76blazerguy

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how do you remove the front spring bolt. I got the rear out easily but the front is not budging. i searched a little bit and so far i came up with cutting or pushing it through with a screw driver. So whats the best method, i dont really want to cut it.
 
A few came out easy but the rest I used a air hammer with a punch bit, even then I couldn't get 2 out. So I had to cut them. The rubber bushing just fuses with the bolt over time with load.
 
so if i "need" to cut it whats the best method, and are the bolts easy to get? im pretty sure the new springs didnt come with new bolts
 
If you don't wanna cut the spring or the bolt, I used a cutting torch on high and heated the bolt up on both sides and used a big hammer hit the bolt till it budged and then used an air chisel with a punch tip and it slid out. If you need the springs it will probably burn up the bushings, but they can be replaced. Be sure to wear ear plugs with an air chisel! :doah:
 
i have done many springs and the easiest way i have found to do it is cut the bolt off on both sides, if you remove the nut you can pry the spring/bracket away from each other to get more room to cut the bolt, you can also cut the head off the bolt if you cant get the nut
i would recommend using new bolts for your new springs and not reusing the old hardware
 
second on the sawzall....I know that they make polyurethane bushings now and would recommend getting them. I will be replacing my springs here in the near future and will definately be getting them.
 
there wasnt any space between the bushing and the shackle so i tried to just cut the bushing. the sawzall wouldnt cut it, but the good news is i have got the bolt head off so far. and the other side is getting close. I hope i dont have to do this on every shackle!
 
try this...

If the nuts will come off,cut the head of the bolt off,or grind it off completely--,and put a few washers under the nut and tighten it again(an impact gun works best)..that will suck the bolt thru the sleeve in the bushing--remove the nut and add more washers if nessasary--usually once you pull the bolt thru the sleeve even slightly,it will spin free and come out..

I use the sawsall most of the time,put the blade between the spring eye and the frame bracket,and cut both sides of the bolt off,since 90% of the time the busings are trashed and are being replaced anyway.. :crazy:
 
diesel4me said:
If the nuts will come off,cut the head of the bolt off,or grind it off completely--,and put a few washers under the nut and tighten it again(an impact gun works best)..that will suck the bolt thru the sleeve in the bushing--remove the nut and add more washers if nessasary

Wow, I never thought of that. Nice tip diesel.
 
yea thanks for the tips, the first side is off, now i have the drivers side to do. Will i have to do this to the rear to? I dont have new springs or bushings for that, just the ORD Shackle flip.
 
diesel4me said:
If the nuts will come off,cut the head of the bolt off,or grind it off completely--,and put a few washers under the nut and tighten it again

This will probably only work with an impact gun. The problem is usually that the bolt has rusted to the sleeve. The sleeve can still turn inside the bushing, but of course the sleeve can't slide out through the bolt hole. So once you start tightening the nut, the whole thing will just spin around and around inside the bushing instead of tightening.

The fastest way I know to do it is to use an angle grinder and cut off wheel right through the bushing/sleeve/bolt combo (it does make a lot of smoke, though). Work your way all around the thing by turning the bolt with a wrench. This means you want to start with the side further from the bolt head.

Once you cut through, the springs just fall out. New bushings aren't real expensive and come with bolts. If you are buying aftermarket lift springs, they come with new bushings and bolts anyway.
 

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