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Front locker?

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badbowtie03

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Hey guys I have an 87 K5. Factory 10 bolts. What is everyones favorite front locker? Can we do a lunchbox type locker that ratchets when in 2wd? I think I had an Aussie in my Jeep TJ and it worked great. But wanted opinions from K5 owners. I will either be running 33s or maybe 35s. Thanks.
 
A lunchbox locker is a great choice. Unlock the hubs and it's like it's not even there. Lock the hubs but dont engage the tcase, it's like your tj was. Engage the tcase with hubs locked and it's a typical automatic locker.
 
Ive always been scared about a locker in front 10b, but if you are careful and not crazy on throttle, it should be ok.

But yes, lunchbox locker would be your best bet.
 
Agree with Muddy, fine but you have to be careful

I wheeled my open d44 with 36 in tsl's for 15 years with no probs, then put a spartan in it

2 trips of wheeling stressed it enough to spin the housing. My fault, drove it like i stole it, lol

Cool thing is the spartan took no damage at all and still looks like new. Tough little unit ,very impressed
 
I had a Detroit in a D44 (about the same as a 10 bolt) for a year and busted 4 axles in it on 35s. A couple busted so easy it shocked me. Just creeping along not even on the gas at all. When I ran out of axles it had me make a decision. Moly axles or D60. 60 won the game. I would think real hard about a locker in a ten bolt. I would go posi/limited slip clutch type diff.
 
Even with a posi or limited slip axle shafts are at risk with 35" tires or bigger in a 10 bolt or d44.

I'm running a d44 with a tru-trac (helical gear limited slip) and I've busted one stub and one joint. Both were in sand with not much load on them.

Keep this in mind. If you do put a traction device in, at least put in fresh axle shaft u-joints then. Go with real Spicer joints. Next thing is changing how you think when driving. Try not to give it all the beans with the wheels turned and or a tire bound up. Only lean on it with the wheels as close to straight as you can.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. By the way do y’all know what could be in the rear 10 bolt of this blazer? It doesn’t make any ratcheting sounds and is quiet. in a straight line on dirt it will spin both tires always. I haven’t tested it a lot but I think it works fairly well. Did anything come in them from the factory or do you think Someone put something in it?
 
Gov-loc aka gov-bomb. Horrible in 10b’s when put to test. Check rpo codes in glove box (assuming axle is stock to truck) - G80 = gov-loc
 
ZooMad75 said:
Keep this in mind. If you do put a traction device in, at least put in fresh axle shaft u-joints then. Go with real Spicer joints. Next thing is changing how you think when driving. Try not to give it all the beans with the wheels turned and or a tire bound up. Only lean on it with the wheels as close to straight as you can.
Click to expand...
This is it, unless you want to spend the money and change the shafts to RCP shafts, cv axle shafts then you can use it when turning.
 
I have a Powerlock for my front Dana 44, when I finally get to SAS'n my Yukon. I talked to a couple people, even made a post on here. Most said to stay away with a traction device up front. Maybe with a fully built front, but thinking on thin ice with a stock front.
 
muddybuddy said:
Gov-loc aka gov-bomb. Horrible in 10b’s when put to test. Check rpo codes in glove box (assuming axle is stock to truck) - G80 = gov-loc
Click to expand...

I gotcha. Ive had 2000s chevys and was hoping it was maybe something different. I know they had that thing. This one I haven't heard bang back and forth yet. Hopefully its different. I will check the codes.

Lastly... I am curious.. I am assuming the front 10 bolt in an 87 is 28 spline? So will any lunchbox locker that says “GM 10 bolt 28 spline” will any of those work in the front? Any recommendations on brand? I might do it and then be easy on it and hope for the best... it it blows... well, maybe a dana 60 would go in at that time. Thanks guys.
 
little red buggy.jpg

I realize this buggy is a lot lighter than a K5 and is offroad only but it has a Dana 44 front welded with 4340 shafts and I run 39" Madddogs on heavy TWF beadlocks.

so far I have only broken the short side inner.

EDIT: I am not suggesting you weld it, just wanted to provide a different perspective
 
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I'm with Jeff here.
Best way to put it, individual results may vary.
Half tons arent as weak as everyone makes them out to be. But they arent that strong either.
 
obijuank5 said:
I'm with Jeff here.
Best way to put it, individual results may vary.
Half tons arent as weak as everyone makes them out to be. But they arent that strong either.
Click to expand...
Agreed. My other K5 got the piss beat out of the D44 with 35" tires and an open diff. Never broke anything.

The one variable that never gets talked about is the nut behind the wheel. A smart driver can finesse his way through stuff with a 10b/D44 and a traction device and not have a problem.
 
I agree with yall. I had a true trac in a dana 35 and an aussie lunch box in a dana 30 on a TJ with a manual tranny and rode it through all kinds of mud and some fairly serious rock crawling too. Never broke anything. I feel like I am fairly easy on stuff and know when to use the pedal or not.

So any 28 spline lunchbox will work? What locker yall like?
 
A locked front 10-bolt on 35" tires can hold up reasonably well. Obviously not bullet proof but if you don't beat on it and use the correct driving style. Don't crank the steering all the way to one side with a front tire wedged in a rut and floor the gas. Also have some fresh Spicer u-joints in the front, and maybe even some fresh shafts. U-joints and axle shafts have a fatigue life....even if used gently they will eventually break. Even the newest K5's are 30+ years old so you shouldn't expect 30 year old u-joints to hold up as good as new ones.

I ran 33's for awhile on my K5 and then installed a good limited slip. Within the first year I broke two u-joints in the front axles, and both times I was down in a rut with the wheels cranked and they were the original u-joints. After learning to avoid that situation and installing fresh joints I ran 35's for years, and on harder trails, with no issues. After installing a D60 front with a locker and 38's I then broke two 30-spline outers and a factory necked down inner at different times. After installing fresh shafts I again never had a problem even after going to 40" tires and running it harder (this a good example of just old parts failing).
 
Any lunchbox will perform well but I believe the spartan locker has addressed some of the shortcomings of the typical design. Check it out.
 
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