Front or Rear upgrade???

[elks]

I am building our dana 60/14 bolt. We are running 38-40" tires. Welding the rear, 14 bolt disc brakes, etc... Front axle getting a detroit locker, and it stock for now. It is getting new brakes/rotors and king pin over haul. The front has manual hubs.

So I am looking at budget and trying to decide... Which axle should I put stronger shafts in? Should I go with chrome molly up front or in the rear? Why?

 

[nvrenuf]

Fancy axles in the front. Why - how often do you read about folks breaking full floater rear axles? Almost never. It happens but I'd bet the fronts break 10:1 over the rear.

 

[Cruz89K5]

Fancy axles in the front. Why - how often do you read about folks breaking full floater rear axles? Almost never. It happens but I'd bet the fronts break 10:1 over the rear.

Exactly.

Break a 14 bolt shaft? Go to the junkyard and get another.

 

[owenst7]

Exactly.

Break a 14 bolt shaft? Go to the junkyard and get another.

And figure out what else you broke haha

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Rear full floating axle shafts are very strong, it really takes a lot to break one. I can't say I've seen anyone that can consistently break one with less than 44's (though I'm sure they're out there) and even then, most people have no issue.

The front Dana 60 is another story all together. The 30 spline outer shafts are by far the weak link in the system, upgrading those to 35 spline should be #1. At that point the 35 spline inners and a good u-joint (even a Spicer) and it's a stout setup.

 

[elks]

Rear full floating axle shafts are very strong, it really takes a lot to break one. I can't say I've seen anyone that can consistently break one with less than 44's (though I'm sure they're out there) and even then, most people have no issue.

The front Dana 60 is another story all together. The 30 spline outer shafts are by far the weak link in the system, upgrading those to 35 spline should be #1. At that point the 35 spline inners and a good u-joint (even a Spicer) and it's a stout setup.

Cool makes total sense... I was leaning that way, but wanted to make sure it was the right path without dumping limited funds first.

 

[80' 427]

Rear full floating axle shafts are very strong, it really takes a lot to break one. I can't say I've seen anyone that can consistently break one with less than 44's (though I'm sure they're out there) and even then, most people have no issue.

The front Dana 60 is another story all together. The 30 spline outer shafts are by far the weak link in the system, upgrading those to 35 spline should be #1. At that point the 35 spline inners and a good u-joint (even a Spicer) and it's a stout setup.

Even if you have the necked down inners?

 

[blazinzuk]

Even if you have the necked down inners?

Yes.

As for what elks asked, no reason at all to upgrade shafts in the rear, the 14b is super strong I have known guys that eat front ring and pinions and shafts like crazy (47s or bigger) who have only broken one or 2 rear shafts.

35 spline outers and drive flanges are the 2 best first upgrades to make to a 60 especially with a detroit

 

[elks]

Yes.

As for what elks asked, no reason at all to upgrade shafts in the rear, the 14b is super strong I have known guys that eat front ring and pinions and shafts like crazy (47s or bigger) who have only broken one or 2 rear shafts.

35 spline outers and drive flanges are the 2 best first upgrades to make to a 60 especially with a detroit

So will an oem 35 spline outer be enough? Or do I need chrome molly? Just wanting to get it right

 

[TheBeast_88K5]

4130 Stubs or bust.... Pun intended.

 

[blazin' j]

Zuk, which drive flanges do u recommend??? I'm gonna do that in the nxt cpl weeks...

 

[blazinzuk]

So will an oem 35 spline outer be enough? Or do I need chrome molly? Just wanting to get it right

Chro moly is not always better but I would spring for em if I could, I just have a really bad habit of breaking shafts or hubs and taking out the detroit too.

Zuk, which drive flanges do u recommend??? I'm gonna do that in the nxt cpl weeks...

Whichever ones you like the design of in the cover plate, not a ton of difference in drive flanges

 

[elks]

If I went cheaper shafts I could be looking at getting a selectable locker (OX, E-Locker, Zip?) etc... I have heard that when the shaft breaks it takes the detroit as well?

Thanks

 

[blazinzuk]

If I went cheaper shafts I could be looking at getting a selectable locker (OX, E-Locker, Zip?) etc... I have heard that when the shaft breaks it takes the detroit as well?

Thanks

If the option is chro mos or selectable locker, then its a selectable locker everytime no question about it

I would run bone stock shafts to get selectable up front if given the choice

 

[blazin' j]

Thanks for the info, kinda what I figured...jus gotta find the ones IN STOCK w/the removable puck option...

 

[80' 427]

Yes.

As for what elks asked, no reason at all to upgrade shafts in the rear, the 14b is super strong I have known guys that eat front ring and pinions and shafts like crazy (47s or bigger) who have only broken one or 2 rear shafts.

35 spline outers and drive flanges are the 2 best first upgrades to make to a 60 especially with a detroit

So with my lockrite front 60 and rear detroit 79 I need to worry about the outters before the neck down 35 inners? Do I run the outters to failure or blow more money?