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front pinion angle with 56s

fubar_k5

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Mar 24, 2009
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warrens, WI
I installed my dana 60 in the blazer and while I was at it I switched my springs around so it would lengthen my wheel base now my pinion is about level with the ground maybe pointing down a little bit. I got 7 inch shackles on it right now was thinking about goin to a shorter shackle see if that might help.

But I was wondering what your guys pinion angle was set at with your 56" springs reversed or how much you had to shim it up. I can get pictures tommarrow. thanks for any input
 
The most imortant thing is avoiding a too small caster angle.

If you've got a straight steering arm, measure your caster angle by placing an angle finder on it.

I had 12* of caster with 56" springs and 8 1/4" shackles, so I bought a set of 6* shims, to get it down to 6*.

On a stock vehicle the caster angle is 8*, but some people say you could go for as little as 3*

Keep in mind that since the axle isn't centered with 56" springs,
the caster angle will decrease when the springs compress...

Also be aware that most spring shims are too short for a dana 60 front.
See this link:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271389
 
my caster angle according to my steering arm is 15* idk if i should get 8 degree shims that will bring it down to 7. but how do I know if I get the right ones like you said. cause right now the way it sits with the angle finder the pinion is sitting right at 0*.

thanks for the input on the caster that gave me a little more of an idea what im looking for.
 
I don't know where to find a longer shim, you could try and call different manufacturers and hear what they say.
I still use the ones I bought from WFO (and the bent spring-plate:o ),
but I'll make a new shim for the passenger top side myself, when I get the time...

I know WFOs shims are too short, and I think the ones from DIY4X are too short as well, since both are 5" long.
But DIY4X could probably do a custom one for you.

The one I'll make will be at least 6" long, but if you have a greater angle,
or longer aftermarket spring-plates, you could need an even longer shim for the top-side.
If you on the other hand have a thinner spring-pack, it might not matter as much...

Maybe I can help you find out how long it has to be.
How thick are your spring packs?
 
the spring pack is about 3 inch thick 8 leaves including the overload. and im also running the diy4x spring plates.
 
Ok, with 8* shims and your spring packs it will move the top of the center-pin about 1/2" backwards from stock.

So either get a shim that's the same length as the spring plate, and get the hole in it drilled at a 1/2" offset towards the rear (the thick end).
Or if the shim has the hole for the centerpin centered, you'll need one that is 1" longer than the spring plate (and then preferably shorten it by 1" on the thick end).

With the DIY4X spring plates it's probably not critical if the shim is slightly shorter than the plate,
as long as the plate doesn't touch the spring in front of the shim.

This applies to the upper shim on the passenger side only, the rest of the shims can be regular 5" ones with a centered hole.
 
i had custom shims made for mine.2 inch longer than the ones the come on the spring pack.the companys out of business now but i paid i believe 120 for them with shipping.a ny of the big companys should be able to do a custom set for ya.
 
ok thanks for the info. a buddy of mine is a machinist might be able to make me some ill give him a call and see what he can do.
 
also make sure to use steel.my original ones were aluminum and broke in half after a couple times out.thats why i extended them An inch on either side of the spring perch to give it a lil more stability and steel for the strength.
 
x2 on making them out of steel

But I don't think I would make them longer than the plates/perches, that would put more stress on the ends of them.
Not that the springs bends much so close to the axle, but nevertheless...
 
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