might wanna check the oil pump,timing chain.....
When I pulled the 305 I put in my 79 C10 out of the '86 van it came in,the oil pan was rotted thru and leaking..so I had to buy a new one..
After I got the oil pan off,I noticed the cam gears nylon teeth were in the sludge at the bottom of the pan,and the oil pump screen had several lodged in it as well..pulling the oil pump cover off revealed one made it into the gears..

---engine had excellent oil pressure,I was suprised to see that..but I didn't like the way the oil pump felt while turning it by hand,so for 12.99 at Auto-Zone I got a brand new stock Melling pump,and for another 5 bucks I bought the metal "coupling sleeve" to replace the cheesy plastic one on the pumps driveshaft..also put a 3 peice timing gear setup (with a metal gear for the cam this time!) in it for another 19.99!..
I learned they sell "value-craft" one peice oil pan gaskets (made by Fel-Pro,same exact gasket as the "Fel-Pro" one,even had the same numbers molded into it,for 18.99--the Fel Pro one was 36 bucks,more than I paid for the oil pan!..

)..so I opted for a new gasket,even though the old one survived and I probably could have re-used it..
I'd make sure the oil pump and timing chain are in good shape before replacing the oil pan..it only cost me 60 bucks for the oil pump,new screen,timing gear/chain setup,new oil pump drive sleeve,oil pan gasket..its a good idea to scrap any oil pump with over 100K on it,regardless if it still works ok..might as well do it while your in there..
Also,I've seen oil pressure sending units leak, and mimic rear main seal leaks..or the rear of the intake right behind there,that can leak too, and appear to be the rear main..and if you have blowby or a clogged PCV system,pressure can build up in the crankcase and make even perfect seals leak too...
