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Front shock relocation discussion thread.

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When I was looking into putting a traction bar on my 1990 Blazer, I started a discussion thread for traction bars. There was a decent amount if involvement and discussion, and I believe it is actually a handy tool to refer others to when they are thinking about one.

Lets do the same for front shock relocation. I was trying to search for it, and they were usually buried in a build thread, or otherwise hard to find. So post up some pictures of what you have done. What you liked or disliked about it. If you have changed it, or have plans to do it differently.

Lets see what you have.

Martin
 
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I like everything about my setup, there are much better shocks available, but for all around wheeling I went with these 5150's
 
I think the most common thing is going to be using the ford shock towers.
That's how I did it. I'll look and see if I can find a picture. The only thing to keep in mind there is to make sure you brace them somehow so all that stress isn't leveraging out with just a small contact area.
 
The thing about the Ford approach is that the angle of the bushing will not match the angle at the axle, assuming you use the factory mounts at the axle. So as the suspension cycles, the bushings need to make up the difference. Notice how the factory setup has the upper bushings at a 45 degree angle (or something) to the frame to match the angle at the axle.

I ended up using some angle iron to fab a simple bracket to raise up the factory upper mount to get extra separation. I have pics on a thread somewhere around here. Can post up later if you want.

EDIT: Pics:

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Ill whore mine some more...


I would have done something like the ford towers, but my 2.5" dia piggyback shocks would not fit between the frame and the steering arm. So I designed these mounts and had a bunch cut.


Overall I couldn't be happier with them and I have zero regrets. Mounted vertical to get the most out of the shock dampening.





 
The thing about the Ford approach is that the angle of the bushing will not match the angle at the axle, assuming you use the factory mounts at the axle. So as the suspension cycles, the bushings need to make up the difference. Notice how the factory setup has the upper bushings at a 45 degree angle (or something) to the frame to match the angle at the axle.

You're talking about the leaf spring moving the axle forward and back as it cycles and the lower mount going slightly left to right - so the 45 degree angle is compromise between the two?

I would like to find the real equation for axle travel with suspension cycling, but back of the napkin says it could be like 9 degrees total as the leaf goes from flat to full droop. That should be shared between the upper and lower bushings. Articulation will be a lot more than 10 degrees total (+/- 20?) and the lower shock bushing has to take most of that angle. I haven't heard any reports of shock bushing bind limiting travel with Ford towers - am I missing something?
 
Sbd's is the coolest. Love that it's still using push pull.
 
You're talking about the leaf spring moving the axle forward and back as it cycles and the lower mount going slightly left to right - so the 45 degree angle is compromise between the two?

I would like to find the real equation for axle travel with suspension cycling, but back of the napkin says it could be like 9 degrees total as the leaf goes from flat to full droop. That should be shared between the upper and lower bushings. Articulation will be a lot more than 10 degrees total (+/- 20?) and the lower shock bushing has to take most of that angle. I haven't heard any reports of shock bushing bind limiting travel with Ford towers - am I missing something?

What I'm thinking is more simple than that. In factory mode, the shock is angled back when looking from the side. As the suspension goes up and down, that angle changes. If the bushing is "parallel" to the frame, there is no means for the shock to rotate around the mounting bolt to soak any of that up, it all goes into the bushing.

With the vertical mounts everyone does with their custom stuff, this concern goes away. Then the bushing just has to deal with the spring movement like you are saying, which seems totally manageable.
 
These are the best pics i have of my current setup. Lower mounts are the knuckle tabs from DIY4X. Currently have cheapo Pro Comp shocks. Hope to either get air bumps or better shocks up front next year.





This is the old setup. Same shocks & lower mounts but up top I used a modified ford f250 tower.





I have step by step pics of modifying the f250 mounts if you want to see them
 
Awesome custom setups. Besides my weak fab skill, my only concern is the major hacking of inner fender required. Does the engine bay fill up with mud sometimes?
 
The more pictures, and descriptions, the better. Make this thread a one stop shop for shock relocation ideas.

Martin
 
Awesome custom setups. Besides my weak fab skill, my only concern is the major hacking of inner fender required. Does the engine bay fill up with mud sometimes?

No major hacking needed. Here's mine with Ford shock towers. You can see how little trimming was needed on the inner.


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Mounted vertical to get the most out of the shock dampening.

This is worthwhile to emphasize. Once you start going off the vertical, you lose dampening quickly (if my trig is right, at 45* you've lost 30%.) With soft springs and/or soft shocks, it's like having no shocks at all. BTDT :(

-- A
 

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