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Front Spring Swap

J

jbeckton

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Westminster, Colorado
i just bought an 89 K5 Blazer that already has a 6" Rough Country full spring lift on it. I am looking to take that off and go with a diy4x set up with 52" springs in the front. My question is which year/make/model Chevy should I get my front springs from? I was told an 80's era Suburban rear spring should provide a good ride as well as allow good articulation. I am running a 35" tire so I guess I need to stay at the 6" of lift for now, I may trim the fenders later and come down to 4".
 
Supposedly 35"s will fit a 4" lift with very minimal massaging of the opening.. I haven't done it yet myself, but will be soon.

As for the springs, I can't help there:dunno:
 
73-87/91 half ton truck suburban and blazer all had 52s. Suburban usually have more leafs so they are more tunable you could say.
Some 3/4 ton trucks had 52s too.
When looking measure along the main leaf and not straight across eye to eye.
 
and this 52/56 spring swap is NOT a bolt in and go for street driving . takes some work to get it dialed in i have read others say . its a longer / softer pring combo . no front sway bar anymore if i recall .

try searching the the garage section . lots of talk about it over the years .

and yes ditch the rough country SUPER STIFF leaf combo . there is a reason there so cheep .
 
sweetk30 said:
and this 52/56 spring swap is NOT a bolt in and go for street driving . takes some work to get it dialed in i have read others say . its a longer / softer pring combo . no front sway bar anymore if i recall .

try searching the the garage section . lots of talk about it over the years .

and yes ditch the rough country SUPER STIFF leaf combo . there is a reason there so cheep .
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They are unbearable! Even around the neighborhood streets they are as bad as I could imagine, I don't think I could notice a difference if the springs were replaced with rigid steel beams.
 
took a full 6" front and rear rough country out of my friends k30 1ton truck and swapped it with a 4" hd tuff country front set andzero rate axle moved ahead 1.5" . then rear was 22-547 part # stock replacment 56" 3/4 - 1ton packs and 4" flip kit . he said it was a whole new truck and loved it . he runs 38x12.50x16.5 swaper tsl sx tires .

i run the same basic lift in my new BUDGET BEATER build but no zero rate in front on a set of old rancho lift 4" fronts that i took 2 leafs out of each and she rides great now .

other truck i have is 3" tuff country hd fronts and 454bbc / 4l80-e/203-205 doubler and she is soft when bouncing in the shop testing stuff as i build it . had those 3" fronts in my old plow truck i parted out from heavy rust . they road great on-road and off . even when i hooked up my 800+lb fisher plow on the front .

if me for a fairly easy bolt on and go try this combo if all you want is better ride .

4" tuff country front springs + 1" zero rate and axle ahead 1"-1.5" . . . rear new stock 5 leaf 52" rears + 2.5" flip kit + 2" -3" block to level out as you like it .

then new body mount bushing set from energy suspension and 1" body lift kit from places like offroad design .

might need crossover steering if front axle is moved up the full 1.5" with the zero rate .

this should keep drive line angles in check and also get good ride plus clear 35-37" tires with no rub to min kiss of the fenders .
 
sweetk30 said:
took a full 6" front and rear rough country out of my friends k30 1ton truck and swapped it with a 4" hd tuff country front set andzero rate axle moved ahead 1.5" . then rear was 22-547 part # stock replacment 56" 3/4 - 1ton packs and 4" flip kit . he said it was a whole new truck and loved it . he runs 38x12.50x16.5 swaper tsl sx tires .

i run the same basic lift in my new BUDGET BEATER build but no zero rate in front on a set of old rancho lift 4" fronts that i took 2 leafs out of each and she rides great now .

other truck i have is 3" tuff country hd fronts and 454bbc / 4l80-e/203-205 doubler and she is soft when bouncing in the shop testing stuff as i build it . had those 3" fronts in my old plow truck i parted out from heavy rust . they road great on-road and off . even when i hooked up my 800+lb fisher plow on the front .

if me for a fairly easy bolt on and go try this combo if all you want is better ride .

4" tuff country front springs + 1" zero rate and axle ahead 1"-1.5" . . . rear new stock 5 leaf 52" rears + 2.5" flip kit + 2" -3" block to level out as you like it .

then new body mount bushing set from energy suspension and 1" body lift kit from places like offroad design .

might need crossover steering if front axle is moved up the full 1.5" with the zero rate .

this should keep drive line angles in check and also get good ride plus clear 35-37" tires with no rub to min kiss of the fenders .
Click to expand...


Any fender trimming needed on that K30?
 
nope . but he did flex it out real good and had to tweek the bottom of the inner fender back at firewall before we moved the axle forward .

but dont forget dana 60 over a dana 44 / corp 10 bolt is worth almost 1" lift . and the k30 trucks sit a bit taller over 1/2 and 3/4 ton stock . the frame is taller .

buddy of mine back in the day had a short bed with 7" total lift and cleared 38" tires no problems . but he had a little stiffer suspension .
 
jbeckton said:
i just bought an 89 K5 Blazer that already has a 6" Rough Country full spring lift on it. I am looking to take that off and go with a diy4x set up with 52" springs in the front. My question is which year/make/model Chevy should I get my front springs from? I was told an 80's era Suburban rear spring should provide a good ride as well as allow good articulation. I am running a 35" tire so I guess I need to stay at the 6" of lift for now, I may trim the fenders later and come down to 4".
Click to expand...
Ha, I've got the same lift in my '78. Don't quite need a kidney belt but it's gotta go
 
I hated my 52’s on the street. They were way too soft and just steering the truck they would flex side to side. That could be fixed with a panhard bar, but that that point just link it. Or you could call ord and get a custom set for the price of springs and hangers.
 
Panhard bar? Is that the same as a track bar?

jekquistk5 said:
I hated my 52’s on the street. They were way too soft and just steering the truck they would flex side to side. That could be fixed with a panhard bar, but that that point just link it. Or you could call ord and get a custom set for the price of springs and hangers.
Click to expand...
 
I have used ProComp 4" lift springs in the front of my '83 K5. It flexes well and rides nice I think. I have trimmed the "fangs" off on the front side of the fender and minor trimming on the rear of the opening and tons of room for 315s(35s). I am going to install axle relocation plates and kick my axle forward 1 1/2". I run no sway bar and it is fine on DD use and can go as fast as my 6.2L wants to around corners and no crappy handling.
 
If you are just wantig a softer ride that is very capable, tc or bds springs in stock length are the way to go. The 52 setup seems cheaper at first glance because the b52 kit is like $200 and rear springs can be had for $50, but as mentioned you will need x-over steering, and likely new front driveshaft, shocks and longer brake lines if you plan to wheel it. It will add up quick
 
Iirc, 89-91 are different. The eye hole at the shackle is smaller. Maybe larger, idk, but different.
 
muddybuddy said:
If you are just wantig a softer ride that is very capable, tc or bds springs in stock length are the way to go. The 52 setup seems cheaper at first glance because the b52 kit is like $200 and rear springs can be had for $50, but as mentioned you will need x-over steering, and likely new front driveshaft, shocks and longer brake lines if you plan to wheel it. It will add up quick
Click to expand...


I was planning on the cross over steering and the new drive shafts anyways. I am not looking to get off cheap, just want the best mix between a good ride on road and good articulation off road.
 
skip the 52" swap and go tuff country off the shelf for good ride and flex

or

BEST option call ord and get a set of there custom built springs for the win if you need to do a lot of flexing .
 
I had 52s and 56s in tons of combinations. I went back to stock length springs. They articulate very well and are much more capable of good road handling.
I post this picture alot but it shows you dont need long springs to move them.

20170301_193927.jpg
 
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