Front sump dipstick?

[K85 Octane]

Classic Industries wants $63 after shipping for a dipstick! OMG anyone run into this style dipstick placement and know if I can cobble something else together? Can I just use a normal tube? Will it fit? Stupid specialty stuff.

ps> I don't have my original tube to check

 

[Wes Harden]

Nor can i find it, I don't remember keeping it. I can't imagine I wouldn't have kept it. I'll look some more tomorrow.

 

[76zimmer]

Is that dipstick tube port on the pan threaded?
I got one of these for my Moroso pan, but it takes a threaded fitting not a pushin type.

 

[Wes Harden]

it is not, is slip fit. And I forgot to search yesterday I will look today

 

[K85 Octane]

Yep, push in. I ran to the parts store this morning to return an $80 rad hose! Luckily I was able to get both hoses from some cheaper options. Anyway, I grabbed one of their generic tube/stick combos for $20. It's a shorty because I didn't want to make a mount for it. If it works, great. If not I can return and keep searching.

The special oil pan gaskets I needed to make this front sump work will be in tomorrow. (Timing cover thick VS thin gasket) Tomorrow is an office day but I would really like to spend 30min and button up this pan.

For records:

 

[K85 Octane]

Also, the purple wire has 12v during cranking only. I'll be using for S terminal.

This "harder" wire with insulation, labeled as "resister or resistance" on the schematics, has 12v key on and during cranking. I assume it's for the coil but the web is all over the place when talking about the wire. I pulled both out of the connector and soldered my own wires in. (The purple S wire was nasty green inside) I will run the S to the starter and the 12v key on to a relay for whatever else needs a "key on" source.

 

[Wes Harden]

the coil wire at starter shouldn't have any voltage. The function is to supply 12v from only when solenoid is engaged, to the coil, making sure there enough voltage to work the coil while cranking.

 

[K85 Octane]

There is no power leaving the starter. Big honkin wire from the battery but that's where it ends.

There is power coming from the battery to a junction on the core support. From there it goes inside to the fuse panel and ignition switch. Because it's an HEI and trigger wire for the EFI, I can just steal that key on

Seems simple enough except I don't have any fuseable links or resettable breakers from the battery. Bender didn't have any either, never liked the idea but also I don't really know how to remedy it.

 

[Wes Harden]

true your current starter is not a GM starter. Nor do more modern GM starters use the "I" terminal. The 1964 point ignition originally equipped in your Nova did however use the the "I" terminal

 

[K85 Octane]

Yep, had like 4 posts on the starter, really dirty and broken wires hahaha

 

[imiceman44]

There is no power leaving the starter. Big honkin wire from the battery but that's where it ends.

There is power coming from the battery to a junction on the core support. From there it goes inside to the fuse panel and ignition switch. Because it's an HEI and trigger wire for the EFI, I can just steal that key on

Seems simple enough except I don't have any fuseable links or resettable breakers from the battery. Bender didn't have any either, never liked the idea but also I don't really know how to remedy it.

I haven't used a fusible link on my wheelers in decades.
I haven't had a fire yet, but I did get some breakers that I bought for my big rig that I think I want to use instead.
I can't remember if they were 200a or 400a