I need to replace some studs on one of my front wheels. I've never done this before and could use any tips or tricks that you guys may have. What problems may I encounter? Is it possible to do this without removing the hub assembly?
CK5
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Front Wheel Stud Replacement
- Thread starter 91 Jimmy
- Start date
Pookster
1/2 ton status
No, you must remove the hub if I remember correctly. there is the right way (with a press) or the wrong way (with an impact gun) to drive in the new one. Last I recall the studs were also with the brake rotor, so just make sure things arent worn out on that end either. Then you just replace both at the same time.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Knock the old one out with a hammer.
Knock the new one in with a hammer from the back.
Done
Knock the new one in with a hammer from the back.
Done
British Slave
1/2 ton status
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It's not that difficult, I did it. Just be sure you have some instructions or a diagram of how everything goes together.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Lay it out in the order your need to put it back together and work with a tarp, cardboard, or something under the end of the axle.
It seems challenging until you do it. Then you'll go **** that was easy. Btw put manual hubs on it while you have it apart.
It seems challenging until you do it. Then you'll go **** that was easy. Btw put manual hubs on it while you have it apart.
Okay, I am in the process of trying to remove the hub. I can't get the assembly to come out so I can get to the spindle nut. Removed the hub cover and the stuff inside. I removed the ring that when around the shaft. It should just pull out now?? I tried putting the cover back on with a few screws to have something to pull on, but it won't come out. It moves about 1/2 inch and that's it??? HELP!
I figured it out, you have to squeeze that little clip together and pull it out. Now I did get the outer spindle nut off, but am having a little trouble on the inner. Does it take a different socket. The 4 prong doesn't seem to line up...
Pookster
1/2 ton status
Worth getting a manual too.
There is a stub nut I think? I forget. I'll know it if I see it. Post a pic?
duanel
Registered Member
did you remove the Drag sleeve retainer washer that is in between the two spindle nuts?
duanel
Registered Member
unless someone previously put a different nut on it it should be the same though on my 73 the socket didn't seem to fit quite right but by tilting it slightly it would make enough contact to remove the inner one (I think it was just making contact with two of the prongs by going a little crooked on it).
andyblack
Registered Loser
You really should put on a set of manual hubs while you're at it. They take about three minutes to take on and off and you always know if your hubs are really locked. The auto hubs can be a pain to put back together right and if you don't get it just right, you could be stuck in a bad situation because one of your hubs didn't lock like it was supposed to.
Also make sure to put those two axle nuts back on as tight as you can (and I mean with a long pull handle or something you can really crank down with). They like to work their way loose and cause the truck to wander all over the road.
Also make sure to put those two axle nuts back on as tight as you can (and I mean with a long pull handle or something you can really crank down with). They like to work their way loose and cause the truck to wander all over the road.
andyblack
Registered Loser
I have the standard Warn hubs, but they're plastic on the inside. They've never let me down, but the Warn Premiums are all steel, from what I understand. I think mine were $60 and the Premiums were $90. Also, be sure that you don't need the adapters for the manual hubs. I can't remember what year trucks needed it, but my '85 didn't. I bought them anyway, so I have a brand new set just taking up space in my house. If you decide you need them, let me know.
Do these studs have to be fully seat into the rotor and hub before I put everything back together? I don't have access to a press and can't get them fully seated? Will they seat when I eventually put the lug nuts back on?
chevydan3
1/2 ton status
Yes they have to seat all the way. Lots of guys put a lug nut and some washers on and hammer away with an impact to pull it through. DO NOT DO THIS, is overtorques the stud and weakens or breaks it. Take the hub/rotor to a shop and have them press the studs the rest of the way in.
Also, do not tighten the spindle nuts as tight as you can. These nuts set the bearings and having them too tight or loose will burn the bearings up. Get a chilton's or haynes and follow the torque procedure.
Also, do not tighten the spindle nuts as tight as you can. These nuts set the bearings and having them too tight or loose will burn the bearings up. Get a chilton's or haynes and follow the torque procedure.
