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Front wheel studs

85 Jimmy

Sheepdog
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I thought I had this covered, but I guess not.

I'm running a SRW Dana 60 up front with either aluminum wheels or wheel spacers to run HMMWV wheels. The studs I have are what appear to be Dorman 610-283 which are pretty much 2.5". Are these fine to run with aluminum wheels?
I see Dorman has 610-563 that are 3" long, but everywhere I've found them they want $190 for a box of 10. That's alittle step for some lug studs.

Here's a picture of a conversion nut to run hub caps on a H2 wheel. It's basically flush with the end of the threads in the lug nut.

1381257513_zpsa7c72316.jpg


And here's a picture of the studs with my adapter on. It's just barely longer than the nut.

1381257510_zps0ce1f8d7.jpg
 
I suspect there will be some intricacies involved with the tapered poriton of the lug nut, maybe the aluminum, but general theory is that the nut must engage at least as much thread as the stud is wide...9/16" stud, you should have at least 9/16" nut engaged.

Can't tell from pics, but lug nuts as shown are quite a bit taller than the stud is thick.

I'm running 1/2" studs on the front (with steel wheels) and they aren't nearly long enough to completely pass through the lug nut. But they engage more than a 1/2" of threads, and have not had a problem in 2 years of running them. Checked torque a couple of times just to make sure after driving it, no change.
 
I suspect there will be some intricacies involved with the tapered poriton of the lug nut, maybe the aluminum, but general theory is that the nut must engage at least as much thread as the stud is wide...9/16" stud, you should have at least 9/16" nut engaged.

Can't tell from pics, but lug nuts as shown are quite a bit taller than the stud is thick.

I'm running 1/2" studs on the front (with steel wheels) and they aren't nearly long enough to completely pass through the lug nut. But they engage more than a 1/2" of threads, and have not had a problem in 2 years of running them. Checked torque a couple of times just to make sure after driving it, no change.

The thread length in the lug nuts are 3/4" long, so from what you say, I should be fine.
Maybe I'll put a drop or 2 of blue Loctite on the studs just to be safe, since I can't check the torque on the spacers unless I take off the wheels.
 
I haven't had any luck finding longer studs either, are your aluminum wheels a tapered seat or flat?
 
I think your good then....as mentioned a minumum of thread engagement equal to the diameter of the stud.
 
I have the exact same setup on my Blazer with d60,H2 wheels and the bulge lug nuts ,they hold fine. I check them every oil change, every set of aluminum type wheels I have ever owned work lug nuts loose. What year center caps are you running on your truck BTW, I'm having a hard time finding the right caps to fit the h2's correctly,most are too tight.
 
I have the exact same setup on my Blazer with d60,H2 wheels and the bulge lug nuts ,they hold fine. I check them every oil change, every set of aluminum type wheels I have ever owned work lug nuts loose. What year center caps are you running on your truck BTW, I'm having a hard time finding the right caps to fit the h2's correctly,most are too tight.

I'm not running any currently. I had plans to run some from a mid 90's truck/van.
 
Thanks for the reply, sorry for the hi jack. I turned some center caps down in my router table with a sanding roll, my results were still too snug of a fit to easily fasten them, and they are not cheap even from the junk yard. I tried early 90 centers off two different 3/4 ton van applications.
 
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