CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

frustrating questions

stiches

Registered Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2005
Posts
72
Reaction score
0
Location
vallejo/lodi, CA
as most of you guys know....my heater core is out...so instead of having foggy windows and a pool inside the pass floorboard...i disconnected the core and ran it straight to the manifold...

Now i am running hotter then reguler, and i have a leak between the radiator and manifold...just one (actullay two but lets not get into that) line. when i had no water with the heatercore hoked up it just climbed slowy...now it over heats...and every other day i have to refill it....and right now i am working nights so i don't have time to replace the heater core...so i want to stick with the freezeing temps...but anyway i can run cooler?
 
Hows the rest of your cooling system? Anything old n tired that you should replace? Do you have a fan shroud? Could drop in a lower T-stat. Or try some of that lower temp in a can stuff.
 
Just went out and checked the hoses...upper is in a decent condition...lower needs a new one cause got alot of oil on it...don't know why....no don't have a fan shroud...can't find one...would a lower degree of a t-stat help any...i never heard of lower temp in a can...were would i get some at?...and would anyone have a fan shroud for sale?
 
I have a fan shroud you can have if you wanna drive out here and get it. I did the winstar electric fan swap and don't need mine anymore.

I've heard 2 theorys on t-stats...

1. Lower temp t-stat keeps engine temps lower

2. Higher temp t-stat holds hot coolant in the radiator longer allowing it to cool off more thereby keeping your engine cooler.

I know that doesn't help, but I've never noticed a huge difference going from a 180 to a 195 t-stat or vice versa... If you have an overheating problem and you have a good t-stat, I don't think changing from one degree to another is going to solve your problem... My .02 worth...

Fan shroud is more important I would think...
 
Colder t-stat may help hide a problem in very few circumstances, but if it won't stay cool and consistent, something isn't working right, it's that simple.

You are probably in need of a new radiator, but hows the cap as well?
 
Most auto parts stores sell stuff you put in the radiator that can lower temps 10-20 degrees. I have a 63 Merc and my buddy has a 57 Plymouth, we both put 160 degree T-stats to keep em from overheating while idling. Alot of performance chips and programmers recomend lower temp T-stats to keep engine from pinging. But you shouldnt need one if youve done nothing to motor, although it can be a cheap quick fix...kinda like duct tape. The fan shroud should be the first thing. It helps alot!!
 
hmmm sacramento....about 45 mins away. I might have to head up there one day...i have to talk to the orignal owner and see if he has the orignal shroud...

when the heater core was hooked up...it was reliable...i think i might of fixed it but guess what i left my lights on now i have a dead battery...anyone got cables and live in lodi??? hit me up
 
okay...got the car to start...have everything good...but my damn radiator cap...need to get a new one...but now i have a mystery leak somewere...i don't have 150 to get a new radiator...so would bars leak work for a few months?
 
stiches said:
Now i am running hotter then reguler, and i have a leak between the radiator and manifold...just one (actullay two but lets not get into that) line. when i had no water with the heatercore hoked up it just climbed slowy...now it over heats...and every other day i have to refill it....and right now i am working nights so i don't have time to replace the heater core...so i want to stick with the freezeing temps...but anyway i can run cooler?

ok...you're running out of coolant, and wondering why it overheats...:rolleyes:

also, the heater core works exactly as the radiator does. you have eliminated the heater core from the system, therefore, you also lost some of your cooling capacity that you're used to seeing on the gauge. replace the core, and the leaking line, and you'll be fine... providing you didnt run it low enough on fluid to damage the water pump.
 
Just replaced my heater core and had a new leak. did a flush and added bars leak and my leak is gone. not much on adding sludge to my cooling system but it was a cheap fix for now.
 
firemedic00 said:
not much on adding sludge to my cooling system but it was a cheap fix for now.

cheap fix for now = expensive fix later. good luck getting that crap out of the block. :screwy:
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom