CK5
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Fuel gauge access panel

i have a diesel gauge thats bran new, will it function in my blazer?
if so it paint over the diesel part and use it cant afford a new one.
 
Disconnect the sending unit at the tank and check it with an ohmmeter. If the problem is with the sending unit it'll read 45 ohms. If the sending unit is reading full then it'll read 90 or 0 ohms (forget which one is for full and empty). Do this once using the ground wire for the sending unit and once using a bare metal spot on the tank itself (like the pinched seam so you can sand down a very small spot) to rule out a bad ground.
 
well i checked it and got 36.4 ohms and i know its full , update: cheched at ground spot and got 96 ohms, checked on frame and got 36
 
Far as I know you could use a diesel fuel gauge,I think they are the same other than saying "Diesel Fuel Only" on it..(All Gm's have a 0-90 ohm sending untit I am pretty sure..

I used a sending unit from a gas powered truck's tank I had ,to test my diesel's fuel gauge,to confirm it was the sending unit making my gauge bury the needle all the time no matter how much fuel it had--I was able to get the tank unit's wire plug off and plug it onto the gas sending unit (and I grounded it to the tank with a jumper wire)--and moved the float up and down,and of course,the gauge read correctly,so I have to drop the tank again someday and replace the sending unit--I might try just swapping only the rheostat unit part of it with one off the gas sending unit,so I can keep the factory water in fuel sensor and water siphon drain setup,rather than have to buy a whole "diesel" sending unit..

Glad it was just your ground wire--I'm never that lucky..:surepal:..
 
Ya, I am glad i dont have to chang that again. And i guess i can sell it or just put it on the shelf.never know if ill need it
 
One warning about RTV,it can eat away body metal rather rapidly in some cases--it releases acetic acid (vinegar) while curing,which can corrode steel --I used some of the black RTV on my '72 K5's windshield leak around the rubber gasket to the body,and less than 6 months later I had a nice rotted "slot" where the RTV was ,and it leaked a lot worse..:doah:

I was told by a body shop to use only urethane or butyl rubber caulking (like used on house gutters and metal buildings) to seal body panels..
Or "seam sealer".which I hate,it causes more rot that it prevents in my opinion--its no good on the exterior either..

When you look at the rtv's there's a regular and the ultra. The regular has that sharp smell, and that's the acetic acid. The ultra has no acetic acid in it an why it doesn't have that sharp smell. If the acid is a concern get the ultra level.
 
i used ultra black, its what i had

That shouldn't be a problem. The non ultra blue or home silicon caulk (non latex) if you have any of that around will give you the whiff if you're interested.

Josh
 
If things are detached inside the tank, like the float and arm of the sending unit, always check for a broken baffle. I am Gonna have to pull my tank again at some point, the fuel pump is obnoxiously loud... like at idle with radio on I can hear it loud. Been a couple years since it was put on, still the same. Never in doubt when I turn the key whether it’s running or not.
 
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