CK5
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Fuel Issues
- Thread starter Slim220
- Start date
Update: I am getting fuel all the way up to the injectors, but they are NOT putting anything out. Noid lights so NO pulse... I do not want to give up and take it somewhere I have been a mechanic all my life (im 24) and electrical was not always my best subject.
If you have a distributor ,the module has two curcuits,one for the ignition and one for the fuel pulse--often one side or the other can crap out ,and it might not always stay "off" ,sometimes it'll be intermittent..replacing the module might cure the "no pulse" symptom,but probably wont have anything to do with the fuel pump not running,thats a voltage supply issue or the pump itself probably..
Later engines with crank sensors use them to "pulse" the injectors and I think they also are part of the power circuit for the pump,so if the crank sensor croaks it can not only kill your spark,it wont get any fuel either--or only have one and not the other...
Troubles like these are why I like mechanical fuel pumps & carbs!...
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Later engines with crank sensors use them to "pulse" the injectors and I think they also are part of the power circuit for the pump,so if the crank sensor croaks it can not only kill your spark,it wont get any fuel either--or only have one and not the other...
Troubles like these are why I like mechanical fuel pumps & carbs!...
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Alot can happen between the relay and the back of the truck.I thought I showed him there is voltage to the pump by showing him the test wire under the hood!
The ignition module in the dist is essentially the crank sensor, though it doesn't read crankshaft position from the crankshaft. It is more there to let the ECM know the engine is turning, and at what RPM, and to fire the injectors based on that RPM.
You need to check voltage via the method I posted earlier. There are only 2 wires running to the pump/sender. One is voltage feed for the pump, the other is voltage feed for the level sender. The connector is above the rear axle on the drivers side. Use a test light. One terminal will light up the test light dim all the time (key on) and the other should light up as I described in the prev post. Make sure the test lights ground clamp is on a good clean ground.
When/if you have verified voltage to that point you need to check the ground strap from the sending unit to the frame. As long as the ground is good and you're getting voltage, then the pump is bad.
IT RUNS !!!!! Ask me how?!?!....... Answer is.... I have no effing clue... i killed the battery several times trying to start it up... and this morning I cleaned it out because I was going to get it towed and for some reason I tried to start it and it started right up... starts up every time now and it will rev up! It runs a little rough and has a vacuum leak but I will be working on that tomorrow!!! It hasn't been ran for almost 3 - 4 years. and only put about $150 into it.
