Fuel line at the tank

[K5_Fla]

Went to replace my gas tank.. when I dropped the tank I found this below

Not sure if this happened while I was dropping the tank.. or if it has always been like this. But it needed to be replaced. Anyway… I cut the bad piece of line off and replaced with fuel injected rubber hose. In the hose I put a piece of brake line and doubled clap both ends. Then I wrapped it in heat shield.

Got it all buttoned up and when I crank it up it was leaking. So I need to replace this line, but the original has some factory crimp. What is the best solution? I don’t have any crimping tools or anything.

 

[K5_Fla]

I guess I could just replaced the complete line from the filter on back to the tank. Is there any company that sells this?

 

[zombiyjay76]

I'm in the process of doing the same thing, but I'm using stainless steel braided line and some Russel fittings (no crimping req). Not the cheapest way to go though. I dont know where you can get a stock style replacement if its not listed in the usual places (LMC, ect)

 

[K5_Fla]

where are getting the russel fittings? The only part I really need is the section from the fuel pump to the where the hard steel line starts....that part is about 2 feet long.. braded steel. I could use rubber hose as well.... but I need the proper ends to screw into the fuel pump and clamp onto the hard line somehow...

 

[919jackass]

got mine off of e bay. mine was busted at the fitting going into the steel braided line i found mine when i had to replace the fuel pump. the kit off of e bay runs from the sending unit up past the fuel filter to the braided lines coming from the t body.i will see if i can find a link.

 

[zombiyjay76]

I picked mine up from Yearwood, but you can get them from Summit or Jegs. The fitting that goes on the hard line is Russell prt# 639210. That is for a 3/8 tube, and the fitting that goes on the fuel pump is prt# 640830 (M16 x 1.5 ). This is for a 90 fuel injected, so double check those for your year.

 

[919jackass]

got mine off of e bay. mine was busted at the fitting going into the steel braided line i found mine when i had to replace the fuel pump. the kit off of e bay runs from the sending unit up past the fuel filter to the braided lines coming from the t body.i will see if i can find a link.

well **** i couldn't find it. if you have a parts store that also makes lines like a tractor supply or some carquest stores can make lines. they can make you the lines out of steel braided, or high psi hydro lines either way you would be find. this one you are probably going to have to fab. another idea steel brake lines - you could run it from the fuel filter back into a union then into a heavy duty rubber/steel braided line to the fuel sending unit. make sure you have extra to bring the tank down a 12 inches or so just to make it a little easier on you.

 

[K5_Fla]

I think NAPA will make coutom fuel lines... I will try them. All I need it the braded line at from the pump to the hard line seen here.

 

[K5_Fla]

ok.. so with this end http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-639210/ I can hook up the braded 3/8 line to the smaller hard line?

 

[zombiyjay76]

Yup, and the AN fittings for the end of the hose.

 

[496truck]

There are faster, easier, and cheaper ways to replace those lines... May not be the best way, but it gets the job done.

I had to replace the tank, sender, and lines on an 89 S10. Everything was rusted out junk. I used standard rubber fuel injection hose to replace the braided stuff. Where the hose meets the sender the sender has that bit of "bubble" flare to it where it makes a seal with the o-ring. I removed the o-ring and tossed it, spit in the end of the rubber line and slid it over and past the bubble flare. Secured it with 2 clamps. At the frame end I had made a new line and just used a flaring tool to make a real bubble flare, slid the hose over that and used 2 clamps there too. Did that with both the feed and return lines, 3/8ths and 5/16ths respectively. Never had a single issue with it the entire time I owned it and prob still working fine today. Oh, and the nuts for the OE lines that were on the sender just sat there..... unused..... forever.

Like I said, is it the "right" way? Probably not. Did it work? Yup.